Tuesday, July 15, 2014

DAY 1: Housekeeping to Little Yosemite Valley

Our plans to wake up at 7am and be hiking by 9am naturally devolved into waking up at 7:30am and hiking at 10:30am. Not a big deal, as it was only about 5.5 miles (but with about 2200 feet of elevation gain), and I'm cutting ourselves some slack as the hordes of day hikers sort of clogged up the trail anyway. I could see clouds brewing up beyond Half Dome as soon as we hopped on the trail and we all felt like the forecast thunderstorm was going to arrive at an inopportune time.

Getting packed up
Look at that smile
Anne, one of our "trail angels," helping us out!
But before officially setting out, we stopped by Curry Village for one final breakfast, which for me, included eggs, toast, ham, and hash browns. By all other standards it was completely mundane, but in anticipation of our month-long diet of bars, nuts, and jerky, it taunted my taste buds with flavors they knew would soon disappear.  With me "hiking heavy" (stuffed full of rich, indulgent, coma-inducing food) and Maddie, Liam, and Anne having snacked in camp, we walked to the trailhead.

Leaving Housekeeping Camp
At the official start point, Happy Isles
Liam being awesome
Anne walked a mile or so up the steep, crowded trail with us before we said our farewells until we would meet again this week.  Our ascent up the trail consisted of some of the most incredible scenery I've ever seen. In addition to marveling at the open vistas, we watched as the impending storm clouds grew darker and darker, until at last claps of thunder reverberated across the valley. With many hikers descending the trail to flee the lighting and rain, we felt slightly nervous pushing forward and higher. Nevertheless, we made it safely to Nevada Falls, where the rain came down hard. Sweating in our rain gear (I'm rethinking a couple of rain gear choices at this point), we trudged forward until we finally hit the 1-mile-to-go mark, where the rain let up for a little bit.  

One of many incredible vistas...you know...if you're into that sort of thing...
Sibling pic in front of Nevada Falls
It was at this point that the thunderstorm really started rolling
Over Nevada Falls and into the valley--it was pouring at this point
Rain gear takes stylish hiking attire to a whole new level
I didn't take many pictures of our campsite because I believe I can masterfully paint an image in your mind by describing it: picture a forest...and, boom, there you have it.  You get the idea.

Our pleasant, if crowded, campsite
We made camp just in time as it started raining again and we bolted into our tents until it subsided. Liam and I then cooked Trader Joe's organic white cheddar macaroni and cheese (delicious, and cheap by the way) while Maddie set up our sleeping pads/bags. 

Liam preparing himself for some delicious mac n cheese.  Looks uncannily like his dog Marley waiting for treats...
With bellies full (I also devoured a sleeve of fig newtons and some turkey jerky), we filled up on water from a nearby river and washed some clothes/dishes.  Food is an incredibly fascinating subject in the context of backpacking. I would say that my mind's attention while backpacking is devided as follows:

-55% admiring the scenery
-35% imagining all of the food I want to eat at that moment (read: In'n'Out)
10% whining in my head about how heavy my backpack is

I have packed as much yummy food as possible into my bear can to last me until the few waypoints along the trail at which I plan to devour as much fresh food as possible. I have to actively stop myself from transforming this blog about our trip into a blog about the myriad delicacies I dream of moment to moment. I'm less than 12 hours in and the wheels are already turning...fresh vegetables...roasted chicken....

As our particular campground is notorious for bear activity, we tried to be as careful as possible so as not to attract them to our site. This serves not only to protect us, but to protect the bears, who, once habituated to receiving human food, are in danger of having to be put down by the parks service. A FED BEAR IS A DEAD BEAR!

With that PSA out of the way, I think it's about time for us to retire to bed. Yes. You heard me. BED before 7pm. Despite the many rowdy campers here tonight, I am looking forward to getting some zzz's. It's not too cold, so I am grateful not to be forced to wear all my layers.  Here's to a hopefully bear-less, rain-less night...although it would be kind of cool to see a bear...

Due to thunderstorms we may not climb Clouds Rest tomorrow, but instead continue to Cathedral Lakes to arrive at Tuolemne a night early. We shall see. One thing's for sure, I'm looking forward to swimming and basking in some sunshine soon!  See ya mañana!

Nighty night, kids!

Goodbye Mammoth, Hello Yosemite

Last night was as predicted: crepes for dinner, packed our stuff up, and watching  Tarzan, one of several stellar movie selections Lauren had the foresight to bring. I forgot how awesome Phil Collins's soundtrack to that movie is--I recommend checkin out Trashin' The Camp featuring N'Sync if you want to instantly make your day awesome.  Also, am I the only one who thought sliding on mossy tree limbs was a feasible way to navigate the jungle terrain? Like swinging from vines, I could even still comprehend...but how did I ever think zipping down branches like that was possible?! I would chalk it up to my naïveté as a child, but I'm tempted to concede that I was an idiot on this one.  

Anywho, the 6:45 am alarm slapped me square across the face this morning.  I know 6:45 is nothing for a lot of you--heck, it's a piece of cake for Maddie--but   I'm predicting rough mornings for the next several days.  We had to catch the bus at 8, and Lauren and Kelly were nice enough to mail our package to Red's Meadow for us, as the post office only opened at 8 as well. On the subject of Kelly and Lauren, it was a sad, sad morning to see them leave us at the bus stop. Thank you both for an incredible weekend--so many good memories.

Lauren and Kelly

The silver lining of our departure is that our bus was whisking us off to Yosemite Valley to meet Maddie's mom and brother.  Within moments of plopping our stuff at the mammoth bus stop, we were greeted by fellow eager hikers. One woman had the same backpack as Maddie, so the two of them engaged in gear talk until a very gregarious 14 year old Israeli boy stepped in.

Now, we've all experienced this. You're travelling, you're tired from an early wake-up, and all you want to do is wallow in your own thoughts or whine quietly to your companion. But instead some stranger with espresso for blood barges up to you and commits what I can only describe as "conversation rape," holding you hostage as he or she tells you jokes that aren't funny this early in the morning, asks you questions that require too much brain power to answer, and generally shuns the social norm of leaving a tired person the f#&@ alone.  The worst part about this interaction is that I feel like the terrible person for not wanting to engage with this friendly, albeit over eager, stranger. And this is all coming from someone who normally enjoys talking with fellow hikers. So we do what good parents raise their kids to do: we nod, we smile, and we suck it up. In the scheme of life, not a big deal. And now that I've had time to reflect over the day, his joke does make me crack a smile:

There's a boy, a girl, a woman and a very angry man sitting together. A man walks by and sees several of them clutching some fancy looking devices and asks what they are. The boy holds up his iphone and says, "iPhone". The girl holds up her iPod gleefully and exclaims "iPod". The woman next proudly displays her iPad and says "iPad". Finally the angry man just crosses his arms and furrows his brows and says, "I paid". 

Despite the joke's reinforcement of the stereotypical gender role of the man paying for stuff, not bad little Israeli boy, not bad.

So, with me donning my notoriously unfashionable off-road Crocs and Maddie in her usual cute workout attire, we embarked on our bus ride, passing beautiful, though slightly underwhelming Mono Lake (already feeling spoiled with the scenery) until reaching Yosemite national park!

Anything goes in the wilderness...including Adorning your feet with these bad boys

Our smiles belie our fatigue (and we haven't even started hiking yet!)

Our lackluster view of Mono Lake

Almost there!

See you in a few days, Tuolemne!

Maddie slept most of the crowded four hour bus ride, so as to prevent car sickness.  Speaking of sickness, I really hope those couple of days in Mammoth becoming winded after climbing a short flight of stairs pays dividends by fending off altitude sickness in a few days.  Today we make our way down to 4500 feet for the start of our hike. Over the course of the past couple of training hikes, Maddie has developed a misappropriated sense of pride from not developing altitude sickness while I generally struggle to breath and think. Conventional hiker wisdom holds that there is no rhyme or reason as to who gets affected or when--it doesn't matter your fitness level. I guess it just gives her some small sense of delight seeing me struggle in her footsteps, and per good boyfriendly protocol, I am content to afford her this little victory.

I have found that many people react to our journey with a similar response resembling any collection of the following:

-you're dragging your GIRLFRIEND along?! 
-what did she do to deserve that?!
-and she's actually okay with this?!
-long distance female hiker, say whaaaat?!

I know these people mean no harm with these inherently insulting questions. In all truthfulness though, Maddie is as capable and strong a hiking companion as I could ask for.  She carries her weight, she doesn't complain very much, she walks a comfortable pace, and, well, she's fun to be around.  So I guess this answers one of the most Frequently Asked Questions that belongs in my first post: Yes she can do it--she's a baller.

A couple of shuttle transfers later, and we made it to housekeeping, where I got Maddie an ice cream sandwich while we waited in the shade for her Anne and Liam.  It was pretty warm, but with Mindy Kaling's audiobook keeping me company (don't judge), it was quite pleasant.

Unsure of their arrival time, I decided to go on a run. I set off toward the permit office to kill two birds with one stone, while Maddie read one of our guidebooks and watched our things. After being questioned by the parks administrator about Leave No Trace practices (if you aren't familiar with these, please do the world a favor and read/follow them), I began my run back to camp as dark clouds swirled around Half Dome and thunder started to rumble. Our friend John gave us some sound advice that has proven true after only one day out here: if clouds start to form before 10am, you're likely to have afternoon thunderstorms. If they form after 11am, then you should be in the clear. That hour between 10 and 11? It's anybody's guess... 

It was great running and stopping to take pictures, including an emotional stop in front of Yosemite Falls, at the top of which, I buried my grandfather's ashes. The sight gives me chills every time I see it, as it also takes me back to my first Yosemite trip with my dad. 

Yosemite Falls (not really flowing at the moment)

A light warm rain began to fall as Liam and Anne arrived. It was great to see them, and they were nice enough to bring us our last Chipotle bowl before our trip!! With food safely secured in our bear boxes, we ventured down to the river before settling into camp. I made the bold move of testing out my new waterproof phone case with a video I will try to find a way to show you another time. 

Bus ride into the valley

Maddie just relaxing at housekeeping camp

First wildlife sighting! EVERYBODY JUST REMAIN CALM!

While out on my run, got a good shot of Half Dome

Liam, Anne, and Maddie family reunion

Shot of the river by our camp

Enjoying our last night of "luxury" in our tent cabin

Most of our stuff...

We just capped off the night with some deliciously greasy pizza from Curry Village's Pizza Patio. Quite tasty. After wading in the river one of my sandals started rubbing my big toe raw and Liam was gracious enough to let me borrow his for the walk back to camp. What a champ. Up at 7 tomorrow and out by 9am, as we want to get to camp before any thunderstorms roll in!

Curry village

And with that ladies and gentleman, we conclude our last night before hitting the trail. It feels really weird that the day for which we've been planning for over a year has finally arrived. We could not be more excited. 

Just so everyone knows, service is incredibly spotty and nonexistent in most places along the trail, but I will do my best to write as much as I can and post them when I can. Afterall I don't want to be a slave to my phone when a major reason I'm out here is to simplify life for 24 days and limit use of the gadgets. So with that, we wish you a good night and thank you everyone for all of the support! Mom and Dad, I'll be safe. Ryland and Lauren, have fun wedding planning. Love you all!


Sunday, July 13, 2014

Taking a Dip

A picture is worth a thousand slurred words. Needless to say, after an epic night of dancing, singing (ask Lauren to sing you Beiber's "Boyfriend"), and me dominating at Bananagrams, we slept in this morning.  Upon awaking, we blearily ate some cereal  collapsed on the couch to some Keeping Up With The Kardashians and some Botched, which now that I think about it, is a great segway between shows when you think about it.  This also struck as an opportune moment to try one of my staple trail foods for this trip: JERKY.  But not just any jerky folks, Perky Jerky.  The protein and guarana marinated jerky is just the boost I needed this morning, and I haven't even started hiking yet!  The folks at Perky Jerky were so incredibly nice to let me sample their product for this journey, and from today's experience, going from feeling hellish to on top of the world, I am excited for the trail ahead.

Perky Jerky verdict: one of, if not THE best jerky products out there!

After a quick run to the market, we settled in to watch the World Cup Final, only to be royally disappointed that it didn't reach penalties. By the game's end, we had all recovered enough energy to embark on a day hike. It would be a terrible waste not to do so on such a beautiful day when you're surrounded by this:
Overlooking Twin Lakes

Today's hike was defined by maximum payout for minimum effort. A mere 3/4 mile jaunt uphill led us out of somewhat crowded, yet gorgeous Lake George, past measly Barret Lake, and up to incredible, desolate TJ Lake. With a steady breeze blowing, the heat was mellowed to the perfect temperature for hiking.  We haven't even begun our big journey and today's hike ranks among the most amazing outdoor experiences I've ever enjoyed. Hopefully the following pictures can do TJ Lake justice!

  TJ Lake

Lauren and I hiking down to TJ Lake

TJ lake

Taking a dip in TJ Lake. Majestic is an understatement.

More TJ

The girls at TJ Lake

Coming back down overlooking Lake George

One of many adorable photos of Kelly and Lauren at Horseshoe Lake


I'll do my best to find a good way to upload videos, as they give a much better scope of what we see.  

The gang overlooking Twin Lakes

We were discussing the idea of trail names last night, a topic that I'm not entirely sure applies to John Muir Trail hikers, but is an entertaining subject nonetheless.  For those who don't know what I'm talking about, long distance hiker culture dictates that you adopt a trail name given to you by your hiker brethren. Although you have the option to not accept the name, it is generally frowned upon to give yourself a trail name. For instance, one hiker I know along the Pacific Crest Trail from Mexico to Canada shaved half her head and was given the name Half Dome.  Just for kicks, if you've got any suggestions for a trailname, post a comment. 

#SelfieSunday



And now we'll round out the night at the Mammoth Brewing Company, then get some dinner before preparing for our early bus ride tomorrow. If anything eventful happens you'll hear about it in tomorrow's post. I'm getting a little grief from the ladies for blogging, so I'm retiring the phone for the night.

Tomorrow Yosemite!

Saturday, July 12, 2014

A Beautiful Day in Mammoth Lakes

So we got into mammoth in the evening last night with delightful effects of the altitude and dehydration starting to fog up my brain a bit. Solution: pounding water and a pulled chicken sandwich in the Mammoth Village. With appetites satiated, we settled in to watch The Pagemaster, a Macaulay Caulkin classic that will never go out of style. Imaginations primed to give us some pretty cool dreams, we retired for the night.

This morning was lazy--we got up and ate breakfast at a leisurely 9 o'clock. As much as I'm sure the coming days of waking up with the sun will be a slap in my face, I can't wait to sync my sleep schedule with the sun. As they say early to bed, early to rise...

We then looked unsuccessfully for a rain cover for my backpack and a waterproof case for my phone (so I can take pictures without worrying about damaging it).  Thankfully Maddie's mom has offered to bring both of them up on Monday!

After getting groceries for the weekend, we headed out for a three mile out-and-back hike to Sherwin Lake. It was a solid 600 feet or so of pleasant climbing and we were rewarded with stunning views of the lake and surrounding mountains of the John Muir Wilderness. 
The ladies headed up the trail to Sherwin Lake

Sherwin Lake at last!

Brace yourself for the selfies to come

Nature lovers

Vistas galore

At the lake we devoured our turkey sandwiches and soaked our filthy feet in the lake before heading down. We considered going for a swim but the water was a little shallow and we would have been swimming in silt kicked up from the bottom. 

Despite 90 degree heat, the weather really hasn't felt overwhelmingly hot. There's a solid breeze and it feels awesome! Another plus: minimal bug issues! As of now we're undecided as to whether we will be taking bug repellant. I'm not a fan of the way repellant--or sunscreen for that matter--feel on my skin, so I've opted for long layers and a big admittedly ridiculous looking sunhat and mosquito headnet combo.

Most stylish hiker award? I hear these hats are all the rage with gardeners and the ladies at the lawn bowling club alike!

So for photos Maddie requested that I remove my hat...it's probably for the best.

Just lounging around by the lake!

Upon our return this evening: showers, Z Pizza (oh, how I will miss you!), cookie baking, apartment hunting, and some borderline unhealthy competition playing Bananagrams and Taboo. 

Sounds like a perfect night to me.  We're so happy to be enjoying our last few days before the trip acclimating and spending time with friends before we all head off to graduate school. Savoring every minute!  

For more photos check my Instagram here: GRAHAM'S INSTAGRAM

Until next time!

Friday, July 11, 2014

And So It Begins...

Aaaaaand we're off! Today, Maddie and I begin our journey to hike the John Muir trail, backpacking roughly 220 miles over 24 days in the Sierra Nevada mountains, from Yosemite to Mt. Whitney.

Here's the rundown.  We just left Laguna for Mammoth Lakes with our friends Kelly and Lauren. We will spend the weekend acclimating at 7,880 feet and Monday morning will take a bus ride to Yosemite valley, where we will then meet with Maddie's mom, Anne, and her younger brother, Liam. We'll all spend the night in housekeeping camp Monday night, and Tuesday morning we'll set off on the trail with Liam (Anne will pick Liam up three days later in tuolemne meadows).

I know what you family members  may be thinking: isn't your brother getting married when you get back? Yes. Yes he is. And provided that bears don't mistake us for tacos wrapped up in our sleeping bags, we will be back just in time.. With our itinerary out on the table I thought I would address some FAQ's.

Q: How do you carry 24 days of food? 
A: We don't. We will carry, at most, 7 days at a time in our approved bear canisters. With enough peanut butter to give a thousand dogs TMJ syndrome, we have packed enough nutrient dense food to fuel our journey. We will be resupplying at various points along the way, including stops from Anne and my friend Matt. Regarding water, there's plenty of fresh mountain streams and lakes along the way for drinking and swimming.

Q: What about bears?!?!?@&@[*{%{+|%
A:  We're not too worried about bears, they are pretty much conditioned not to hassle hikers. It's the little critters (marmots, I'm talking to you) who we need to keep from gnawing through our packs.

Q: What if you have to fart in the tent?
A: Whoops! My bad...

I'll post more FAQ's when I get the chance, for now feel free to check out my Instagram here: GRAHAM'S INSTAGRAM


En route to mammoth lakes!



Getting patriotic #murrrca

Happy trails!

Graham and Maddie