Friday, August 14, 2015

Day 4 JMT The Sequel: On Top of Old Whitney All Covered With Scree (Well...Almost)

Mileage: about 13.9
Elevation: 3500 feet (roughest of estimates)

I might be the only person in history to go up Mt. Whitney for the SOLE PURPOSE of getting cell reception. I mean, you want to talk about an out of the way, overcrowded side trip! I love people--in fact, some of the best moments of my lonesome journey so far have been chatting briefly with the cheeriest and most encouraging of people. Those moments inevitably end up being highlights of the day.  Otherwise, it's a constant nuisance of having to pull off the side of the trail to let so many people pass and each time have to take an ear bud out only to hear the person mutter a thank you.  Don't get me wrong, a majority of people I run into are just peachy, it just becomes a bit cumbersome after awhile. I'm sure part of this frustration stems from the fact that the direction I'm going has much fewer people going my direction, so the chances of finding someone going my way, my pace are somewhat slim. Cough-Liam come back-cough.

See you in a couple hours, Timberline Lake

Anyway, it's been a long and emotional day, yet again. I woke up at 3am, went back to sleep, then again at 4, and finally at 5 I decided to call it and got packing as fast as I could. I felt nostalgic watching all of the headlamps flicker on the switchbacks in the distance, remember my own sunrise ascent last year.  Albeit most of these people were gonna just miss the sunrise from what I could tell, it was still exciting to watch. 

While it wasn't cold when I packed up, the moment I started climbing toward Guitar Lake it became frigidly cold. The early morning had squelched my appetite, a disconcerting theme that has been the source of much frustration, given the thought and care that went into selecting and planning my daily rations. So I continued not to break that morning's fast, and pushed onward up the switchbacks.  There was enough of an early morning dawn glow that I didn't need a headlamp, and this new ascent gave me ample opportunities for pictures I didn't get to take last year in the dark of night.

Can you spot the switchbacks to the top? Neither can I...

Guitar Lake looking good. For some reason I always think of my brother when I see this...perhaps because he's such a gifted musician...

The trickling streams were frozen over. This ice, exhibit A, supports my testimony that is was FREAKIN COLD last night and this morning!

I wanted to get up there before 9, but I felt horrendous on the climb. I wouldn't necessarily attribute it to altitude, but rather a general sense of fatigue that has overtaken me. On my ascent, I started chanting three words to help me visualize overcoming this and future obstacles on the trail. I didn't put a great deal of thought into this, as they just sort of came to me, and I'm sure to some, the corny factor will be enough to make you puke. Nevertheless, it helped me. The words were Resilience, Perseverance, and Toughness.  After repeating them for a while I felt stronger, and I began choosing one of them to repeat for whatever situation I found myself in. For example, if the backpack was rubbing my hips raw, I'd say 'Toughness' to reflect that no physical hardship could break me. If I was getting fatigued and sloppy with my footing, I'd say 'perseverance' in an effort to regain my focus. You get the idea. 

The climb wasn't without its beautiful views

Am I there yet...? Nope :-/

When I got to Trail Crest, I couldn't feel my fingers, but thankfully I had packed everything so all I would have to do was remove the top part of my bag and strap it to my waist to continue on to the first gap between the pinnacles. As soon as I turned my phone off of airplane mode; I was flooded with messages and I was relieved to find out Liam was alive and well; and that it was only the altitude that had stymied his trip's inaugural day.

I proceeded to call Maddie and my immediate family, and Jorge who had left a lovely message for me, reminding me to look out for glimpses of John out of the corner of my eye.  Oh how I miss them. This time last year I was calling John to confirm our pickup time and, per his casual manner, assured me that whatever time we got down was fine with him because he'd brought a good book. I stayed up there as long as my frigid, shivering body would allow before turning back. Having summited last year, I didn't really feel the insatiable need to cover every inch of trail this time around.  The emotional and physical tolls right now even have me considering exiting at Kearsarge on Saturday and getting driven to Muir Trail Ranch on Tuesday...we'll see how the next couple of days go.

These Tanka sticks were pretty much the only appetizing thing I ate today. It's hit or miss but I got these down without much effort, which doesn't sound like a ringing endorsement, but given my description of my tumultuous relationship with food so far, this speaks volumes.

My ignorance with regard to flora is appalling, and despite my shame, I'm giving this little nook between pinnacles John's Spot of the Day. On hikes he was always able to illuminate the remarkably beautiful amidst the seemingly ordinary. Whether it be wild flowers, the bark of a tree, or the niche of rich green foliage tucked away from the main trail, he had a story and possible explanation for everything and an eye for the subtly unique and beautiful. He gave me a photo book of Mt Whitney and I've looked through it dozens of times, and today I was reminded yet again how generous he was with his time in sharing his knowledge with me and others. Despite the show-stealing views of the valley below, I couldn't help but notice these pretty wild flowers and think of how he would have pointed them out the moment we got there. 

Coming down from Whitney was not terribly exciting, as I was tired, undernourished, and just desperate to have a rest day I know is not on the horizon yet.  The other thing that got me moving pretty fast was the desire not to have to carry a used WAG bag around with me everywhere I go.  You see, from Crabtree to Whitney and out the portal on the east side, you are within the "Whitney zone" and are required to use such a waste receptacle to do your business. And I'm not going to dance around it here, when you need to go, you need to go.  Those exiting the portal are only condemned to stinking up their packs with their own excrement for a matter of hours. Just imagine--or don't if you are within a half hour either side of meal time--how impressively wretched my pack would smell. As if sweaty and dirty unwashed man wasn't rosy enough a combo to agitate the most dulled olfactory palates.  It was a race against the clock--my body clock--and I'm happy to report I won.  I'm not sure this scenario even has a winner, so much as a not-loser, but that's just semantics.

Looks can be deceiving...it was brutally cold.

"Sometimes I wish I could play guitar, and then I remember I'm just a pot."  ~Scott the Pot

Finally the sun begins to warm me up!

I am going to be honest, the next 3.4 miles to Wallace Creek were brutal, which probably explains me being in bed by 5:45pm today. I just can't imagine how  going to keep this up. It's getting more and more difficult to choke down any of my food, and the schedule just gets worse until MTR. One thing I learned today is that lack of sleep is not the way to go and getting an early start doesn't necessarily result in bigger miles if you're too tired to function. I'm going to sleep in as late as I can tomorrow, probably around 8, and hope for better results. 

One last meadow before the descent to Wallace Creek...finally!

On my way into Wallace Creek campground, I met two guys, trail names Ned and the Radmiral, and they were really friendly. It got me thinking that camping with people might not be a bad idea, so I'm going to give it a go.  I did the usual, making some dinner, though true to the reviews, this Good To-Go meal was not as stellar as the first.  It was still quite good, but it rehydrated a little weird to a level of off-putting that my delicate appetite just wasn't stoked about.  It was a true force-feeding type of day.  I'm not so much dreaming of a particular meal at home, as I am the feeling of not being repulsed by all food in general. I can't tell you how depressing that is when eating and exercising are supposed to go hand in hand. Instead it's like hand in wood chipper. They are just not meshing right now. 

Overall, despite the physical and mental hurdles today, the rewardof talking to loved ones made it all worth it. Until tomorrow, and Forester Pass!

Day 3 JMT The Sequel:

Before I went to bed last night, at 9:45pm I went outside my tent to go to the bathroom real quick. Just as I was heading back toward my tent, I looked up and caught a glimpse of the stars. It wasn't too cold and there wasn't s hint of wind, so I took off my beanie and hoods so I could hear the almost deafening silence and take in the sky. It was breathtaking. 4 shooting stars later, and I closed my eyes, thought some positive thoughts, and headed to bed. It just felt special...

Rise and shine!

Beside last night's star-gazing, the campsite was perfect! Almost no wind, plenty of space, easy tent setup/take down, rocks to lounge on (though I didn't reserve much time for that), and far enough away from the trail that I wouldn't be bothered by anyone. What I decided last night as I pored over the maps was that I wanted to reach the top of Whitney, if for no reason than to get cell reception.! This sounds like the most wilderness sellout reason ever--and it is--but i really need to call home and make sure Liam is okay and got there safely. I also need to call Matt and tell him not to carry Liam's food, maybe he can just store it in a bear box at the trail head.  Lastly I need to call my family and hear their voices, just to let them know I'm thinking about them and Maddie every step of the way.  

Turkey jerky for breakfast, why not. Spoiler: I ate 3/4 of a pound in one day today.

Shoutout to all my dental school peeps! Keepin on that hygiene routine!

Anywho, waking up, I realized this morning what a daunting task I had ahead of me. It would potentially be the second most miles I've done with a heavy pack.  The climb to New Army Pass was exceptionally beautiful. I would go so far as to say it was the highlight of the day, both from a vista perspective and an energy level one.  I talked to a couple of guys doing essentially the same thing as me, and it was nice, but made me miss having my own companion even more.  I'll be going at a faster pace to meet my schedule, so I may not see them again, but it was nice to chat and take a break after the climb.  

I'm going to give John's Spot of the Day to Long Lake because lounging on a rock by a lake reading a book sounds very much like something he would enjoy. It was a tough choice between the lake and the views awarded at the top of the pass, but ultimately the above scenario was just too enticing, offering more to do than just snap some amazing vista shots.

This licorice is off the chain...or rope...or log.

It's a big year for @PlacesMyPotGoes

Nothing like a morning pass to kick your ass

And we shall call it...Marmotopia

Tanka sticks for the win!

The suburbs of Marmotopia

The descent was really nice off the top, rocky expanses of marmot homes all around me.  Further down toward tee line I encountered one of many streams and creeks I would follow today. It made for a nice background soundtrack to my podcasts, but the terrain became increasingly dirty and rocky, both not conducive to faster hiking. It remained this way for most of the afternoon, pretty much until I approached Crabtree Neadow and beyond.  Up and over Guyout Pass, it came to my attention that the gentle white haze beyond the adjacent mountains to the west was a fire.  No one I ran into could speak to its severity, but we all figured we weren't in any danger.  After all, it was so subtle that someone had to point it out to me.

Looking back up toward the pass

More meadow please

Almost to Rock Creek at this point...the sound was so pleasing. Here lemme try to replicate the sound for you here: wshhhhhhhhhhhh (never ending). No? Not conveyed well in text medium I see. Duly noted.

Two passes in one day, and suddenly my hips started to feel quite raw. It was as though the hip belt was pinching and sanding away at my hip bones, and despite the tape I applied only got marginally better. After experimenting with ways to wear my pants and heights to wear the hip belt, I landed on a decent combination that would get me through the day. At about mile 13 my feet felt pretty battered, but I'm loving my Brokks Cascadia 10s nonetheless. It's just a matter of getting back into hiking shape.

Oh herrooooo Whitney! 

#PlacesMyPotGoes 

I felt pretty determined to get to Guitar Lake, but as I climbed beyond Crabtree and past so many beautiful campsites, Ithe draw to set up camp became stronger.  It was 6:15 when I finally decided on a spot just before the Timberline Lake area, and I set about my normal routine. In an effort to expedite my morning just a little bit, I'm sleeping in my hiking shirt, something I hate doing. I'm going to hope I can go to bed at a decent hour so I can get up as early as possible to reach the summit. Sure I won't be able to compete with the go to bed at 6pm/wake up at 2am crowd, but if I can be out of here by 6 or even 7 I won't complain.  If I can make it to Wallace Creek tomorrow that might put me at another 15+ mile day, the thought of which sort of makes me groan. But we shall see.

See if you, the discerning reader, can determine which part of the leg has been baby wiped for 5 minutes and which one hasn't!

Mountains turn all kinds of pretty at sunset!

On a positive note, dinner was delicious tonight--Hawaiian rice with chicken by Backpackers Pantry--dare I say, it hit the spot even more than last night's chilli. I think Asian inspired dishes are what I crave most out here. Oh my, speaking of Asian cuisine, Maddie got my favorite Thai place without me before I left, so if you're reading this Maddie, yes I remember and no I don't forgive you. 

Elevating those feet and straight up devouring that food. 

Anyway my back and feet are pretty destroyed at the moment so I'm gonna consult my maps and listen to some audiobook/podcast magic. Best to all those back home!

Day 2 JMT The Sequel: LIAMMMMMM!!! (In the voice Tom Hanks uses to cry after Wilson in 'Castaway')

Even the best laid plans can go awry.  Today I regret to report that Liam will no longer be joining me on the JMT.  

Last night I told him if his symptoms worsened to notify me immediately. He hadn't eaten or drank anything all day pretty much, and what he did was immediately purged.  He woke up around 11 at night yelling, which scared the living hell out of me, but he was just dreaming. In the morning, though, it was clear he was feeling a bit worse, so after some discussion, we sounded the Spot GOS alarm and packed up for the trailhead.

As we had only made it about a mile the day before, we made good time and he immediately found a shady spot where he could relax.  We activated the beacon again in hopes that at least one message was getting through.  To be sure, we were lucky enough to find a couple of guys leaving for Lone Pine, so I asked them to call Anne when they got service to read her a message telling her to meet us at the trailhead.  They didn't have enough room for us to hitch a ride and we weren't what we would do down in Lone Pine where it was hotter anyway.  Liam didn't feel deathly ill, just the same tonic level of misery/discomfort, otherwise we would have sounded the SOS and/or done anything we could to hitch to Lone Pine.

Poor guy...

We passed the time the best we could, playing that game where one person names a place, and the other person names a place beginning with the letter that the first person's place ended with.  It lasted like 2 hours actually and Liam didn't heave during that time so it felt like a good use of our time.  We then played the same game, but with words (not proper nouns), which Liam had apparently already developed a strategy to get the other person to use only words starting in Y.  It was a long hard battle, with some dubious-sounding words, like "yuppily," but after being in Liam's clutches the entire hour and a half, I pulled out the victory when he surrendered.  From there it was matter of sitting and waiting. Not really exciting, but again, with perfect weather and mountain forest around, nothing to complain about.

Hanging out by the trailhead

Perhaps it's the fact that we've done barely any hiking at all, but my hunger just isn't there. I tried to do some push-ups last night and today to sort of jumpstart my urge to eat, but no dice.

Alas, at around 3pm, a man in a white car rolled up and asked for Liam and Graham. We soon discovered he was with the service agency Anne had contacted asking them to fetch Liam from the trailhead. She wouldn't arrive until 5:30, so it was best he take her the 40 minutes or so down the mountain.  I really didn't want to split up with Liam, but we both agreed he was in good hands. Plus the note the man had said I should keep going if I want, and Liam made me promise I would continue on, so rather than make Anne drive that long windy mountain road at night, I packed up my things and rushed off.  

What a blow to my morale. I was having so much fun hanging out with him, and the next moment he's gone. Such is life. I hope he'll be able to join me at MTR, and that whatever is wrong with him gets resolved soon! I'll miss you so much Liam!

So I cruised along at a brisk pace on the less maintained South Fork Trail, hoping to at least get 5 miles under my belt and set myself to get over New Army Pass early in the morning. I was finally doing some solid hiking, and the views of surrounding Cirque Peak and others kept getting better and better.  

On this edition of Tiny House

One meadow after another today!

Such amazing fields of green and gold

A contender for John's spot of the day

The trail got so hard to follow that these rock cairns were the only semblance of order on this climb. Navigating wasn't hard though.

Looking backward wishing Liam were here 

It was just as the trail crested to reveal Cottonwood Lake No. 1 that I just lost it. A meadow in various gradients of green and gold shines brighter than honestly any I have ever seen. The late afternoon light on the tall grasses was breathtaking, and the lake looked crystal clear and smooth beneath the behemoth granite peaks. It was one of the happiest and saddest moments I have ever experienced, a dichotomy I'm sure in time will come to embody the entire JMT for me. And I'm okay with that. But somewhere between happy and sad is what I hope to achieve sooner rather than later, and that is peace.

And John's spot of the day goes to...

Stopped for a while to marvel at this place

Rocks and boulders for days

At 5:30, after soaking in the amazing view and reflecting for a bit, I decided to push on until 6, hoping I didn't pass too many good campsites before having to backtrack. That's one of my biggest problems when I backpack. I always want to push just a little bit further and get as much done as I can, but I also hate having to set up my already large tent on rocky unforgiving terrain. So u often find myself passing several fantastic sites in hopes of something better before realizing I went too far.  In time I'm sure this over-eagerness will dissipate.  I did find a good site between lakes with no one around, so I will consider myself grateful.  

I set up camp, made myself dinner, cleaned up, and got ready for bed--the usual.  The Good To-Go backpacking meals I've been looking forward to trying are seriously amazing.  At least the three bean chili one I had was incredible. It's like the reviews said, it has restaurant quality flavor, and it's pretty darn nutritious.  Super excited for the others!  

Photo does this meal no justice whatsoever

And a That's It fruit bar for dessert beneath the setting sun

I'm nursing a couple cuts on my fingers, and my toenail is flaring up a little bit again. I think it's honestly just the added weight of my pack putting extra pressure into my feet when I walk.  Either way I'm taking care of it and being as vigilant as possible.

And now I'm tired and want to listen to my audiobook and play games on my phone. I find between these two things, I can get pretty distracted. I'll see if I can make the 15 miles to Crabtree tomorrow (or 18ish miles to Guitar Lake), the17-19 miles up and down Whitney to before Tyndall Creek on Wednesday, another 16-18 over Forester Pass to Bubbs Creek on Thursday, and a gentler 5-7 miles to meet Matt and Raelin on Friday.  Wow I can't wait to see them and be with friends!  I figure these next couple days will give me a chance to warm up to the 3 consecutive 25 mile days planned after Friday to get to MTR on time. Log cabin and delicious food here I come!

I miss Liam and everyone so much already! It's going to be a lonely, but surely rewarding NoBo journey! Goodnight folks!


Day 1 JMT The Sequel: Breakfast Burritos, Altitude, and Grief

I awoke this morning to the gentle nudge of Liam, prodding me awake. It was really dark in the motel room, with a bright square of light passing through the window. Bleary-eyed, I brushed my teeth and we set about planning our morning. Liam had come down with a serious case of nausea, so breakfast was not on the table for him, pun intended.  Instead, Anne and I drove to the visitor center, procured our permit, and then went to breakfast at the Alabama Hills Cafe. It's a bakery, diner and deli all rolled into one, and peering at everyone's plates as we walked in told me we were in for a treat--and the array of baked goods was just unbelievable.  

For my last meal before entering the wilderness, I opted for a breakfast burrito with avocado, and Anne, the blueberry pancakes. Indulgent, but not overly monstrous, it hit the spot and put me in a good spot to start the day. I would have snapped a photo...but I was too hungry. You know how it is.

Liam + Whitney

Pack out your crap, people! (When I first wrote that sentence I forgot the comma, and it read very differently...)

Meanwhile, when we got back to the room, Liam was still under the weather, and I set about getting dressed and ready. It was in these final steps of preparation that Liam and i realized neither of us had packed our stove. ARE YOU KIDDING ME?!?! I take full responsibility for the gaff, but luckily a fully stocked adventure store had the stove, so I sucked it up and got a new one. Desperate times....

With a near-miss of a fiasco on our hands--well, maybe not fiasco, per se, but massive inconvenience--we finally headed up Whitney Portal Road to the trail head. 

It was during our final hour in Lone Pine that my family notified me that John was being taken off life support within the hour.  No amount of venting, thought, or crying will prepare you for that moment, when you realize the candle has been snuffed out.  The metaphor and poignance of heading into the one place he would most want to spend his time is obvious. It should give me some sense of purpose, some extra boost of motivation to put one foot in front of the other and hike in his honor.  Indeed, on a deeper level these things are true, and I do feel that this trip has taken on a more significant meaning. But right now it's just taking every ounce of energy I have to stem the flood of frustration and grief that just won't release its chokehold on me. 

I told my family I love them, I promised to be safe, and I put my phone away as we ascended the switchbacks to the trailhead.  It's all I could do.  Fortunately, we came upon a friendly hitchhiker, clearly an outdoorsy guy needing a lift to our trailhead. Given the 90 degree heat and that the drive was well over 30 minutes and 4,000 feet, we happily brought him along and his company helped distract from the sorrow that had swallowed me whole. At the trailhead, we packed up, used the restroom, said goodbye to Anne, and were on our way. Simple as that. I have to take this moment to thank her for being so incredibly supportive and helpful. One of many great things about her is that in the throes of Liam's sickness, my sadness, and our stove mishap, she always stays positive and thinks of ways to solve problems. She's a calming presence, and I feel so grateful that she made the journey with us to see us off.  So thank you!!!!

Climbing...and more climbing...

Scott the Pot's at it again, people

AND SO IT BEGINS!

With the parking lot in the rear view, we trudged our way along the gently ascending path toward New Army Pass. The weather was extremely pleasant, and the scenery peaceful. We soon stopped so Liam could take a break and regroup.  Our stop, however, turned into a rather extended one.  The poor guy was suffering from what I'm thinking is a combination of 4 potential major factors: altitude (the most obvious culprit), nerves/excitement, side effects of his altitude medication (I forget the name, maybe acetazolamide?), and/or a brutal car ride up the countless switchbacks to reach the trailhead.  Add in possibly inadequate hydration/nutrition, and the odds were stacked against him today.  I tried walking him through a guided meditation to ease his discomfort after asking him numerous times if he wanted to head back and call his mom but he insisted that we just hang out, which was fine by me. His insistence alone was not the only thing that swayed me to stay the course. I know it can take anywhere from 24-48 hours for signs and symptoms to improve, so I promised him he had plenty of time to recover and continue on.  Even if we left on Wednesday, we could skip Mt. Whitney and do the 45 miles to Kearsarge by Friday afternoon if we had to.

Our lounge spot for the afternoon

So we lounged around by the side of the trail, meandering occasionally to the creek nearby and moving back and forth between shady and sunny spots. It was admittedly a somewhat boring afternoon, but it was peaceful, and having someone else to worry about and care for took my mind off of everything else. I just want Liam to stay positive, and knowing him, he will. 

The hours passed by until I decided to scout for some campsites. The area along Cottonwood Lakes Trail is quite pleasant to walk and to camp. No breathtaking vistas a mere mile into the trail, but it's really comforting.  We set up camp and got ready for bed, and here I find myself doing the only thing that's helping me cope.  I tried listening to audiobooks, but the beginnings of books are always the toughest parts to get into, and it just felt like rambling noise in my ears that couldn't drown out what I was really thinking.  My hope is that by the end of this trip, I will have succeeded in making this not the mopy-est blog of all time. But right now I'm just at a loss for words...so naturally I'm doing my best and failing at finding the right ones to express it all. 

Camp 1!

Let the selfies begin

Scott's already trying to steal the show

Nighty night!

I feel like I'm dishonoring him by letting his death negatively impact my trip. That is the absolute last thing John would have ever wanted. I know I need to be present in this moment and not stuck in moments that either were or never came to be. But grief is unavoidable, and I can't help but imagine the infinite number of ways our conversation could go when I get home to tell him about my hike.  Contrary to what I expected, this kind of isolation has not bestowed any semblance of emotional healing.  Granted, everyone is different, but I don't anticipate any Cheryl Strayed types of epiphanies here, no yelling into canyons, no introspective peace, at least yet.  I long to be surrounded by those who share this burden, whose forlorn faces appear like a mirror's reflection. If misery doesn't love company, then misery doesn't love anyone at all.  Instead I am bracing myself for the moment I stroll into Happy Isles and meet my dad's embrace, the moment I get home and curl up next to my mom, the moment I hear my brother's voice, and the moment Maddie squeezes me so tight I can barely breath.  Until then, I'll continue to wonder what John's favorite part of each day would be. Today, I imagine it's a tie between the moment we left town, and a leisurely 20 minute nap by the creek. 

Hoping tomorrow finds Liam in better health and myself in better spirits.  Rest in peace, John. 

Sunday, August 9, 2015

Day 0 JMT the Sequel: Tearful Goodbyes

Warning: much of this post is admittedly premature, and I even debated whether or not to post this. But with the current state of affairs in mind, and my impending isolation and lack of cell service I feel an overwhelming urge to vent.

I'm in the car on my way to Lone Pine. Liam and I just ate our usual Chipotle hack, bowls with double rice, double beans, half and half meat, and tortillas on the side. It's a bit late, 9:40pm, but we got a late start thanks to me. But we are on the road and a mere 12ish hours from hitting the trail. It's still a bit surreal to be back at it again. 

It's been a year to the day since Maddie and I walked down to Whitney Portal to meet our good friend, John.  I mention this with the heaviest of hearts, as John continues to fight a losing battle with pneumonia and a host of other infections that have capitalized on his compromised immune system. Having suffered from myelofibrosis for some time and depending on a never-ending series of blood transfusions and various drug therapies, John was finally forced to undergo a stem cell transplant in February of this year. Despite a 10 point match, the treatment failed to reap significant gains, and he underwent a second, less strenuous transplant this summer. He always maintained an optimistic outlook when we spoke, and we shared in his spirit.  It was only in the last couple of weeks that we were faced with the prospect of this second transplant failing. But we did not have time to react or look ahead to the next step, as he came down with a vicious infection this last Sunday. Within the next couple of days, his pneumonia and fungal infections worsened to the point that we were summoned to bid our farewells on Thursday night, as we prepared for the worst. 



Thursday, August 6, 2015 was one of poignant contrasts. In the morning, I woke up, headed to the Hotel Laguna and officiated my best friend's wedding, a memory I will forever cherish. It was a beautiful day and it merits its own post later for all the joy it brought to everyone involved.  While the morning festivities brought boundless joy and harmony, the evening wrought nothing but heartache. 

Within a couple hours of eating cake and dancing the afternoon away, the entire family and fleet of friends were bound for City of Hope to pay our dear friend John a visit. The doctor's prognosis was poor, and though we distracted ourselves with the joyful happenings of the day, a quiet despair hummed in the background. 

We arrived and were allowed to enter two at a time to visit him, donning gloves, a mask, and a gown, and under the assumed identities of his "cousins."  Intubated and in a coma, it was a difficult sight to behold. In the hours preceding that moment, the emotions spilled over numerous times, to the point that I was surprised there were any tears left in the tank when we walked into the ICU.  I won't belabor the scene before us, the elaborate Christmas tree of drip medications, the restraints, the steady mechanical cadence of the respirator, the occasional grimace on his otherwise peaceful face.

John has not yet left us, but with the most recent update giving him 24-48 hours left and me being stuck on the highway and not wanting to spend it quietly sobbing to myself in the back seat, I'll take this time to reflect on the man and mentor who has come to be one of my best friends.  

John has known me my entire life, as his friendship with my parents extends back almost 50 years.  I would not presume to know him as well as their remarkably close friend group that remains a shining example of enduring friendship and love. In fact, for many years growing up, I viewed John as my "parents' friend," a friendly face at my birthday parties or family celebrations. Straight-forward, outdoorsy, and almost always with a subtle grin on his face, John never really treated me like a child. In ways this intimidated me, but I almost feel like it facilitated our friendship that blossomed when I got older. 

John worked for my mom at her index tab business for as long as I can remember. Her office/warehouse was my playground, exploring the cupboards and shelves of the place, one might easily find as many puzzles and toys as business documents. And you couldn't even begin to count the athletic balls that Ryland and I lost in the warehouse amidst mountains of boxes and underneath the innumerable dusty wooden slats. In retrospect, the risk for serious injury by means of black widows and/or warehouse machinery alone was in all likelihood shockingly high. 

Besides the warehouse, my two favorite places in the office were the break room and John's office. The former because of a bevy of treats, from jelly beans I robbed of all the good flavors (tutti frutti is where it's at) to the most delicious potato chips and pretzels I've ever had that came in giant artisanal-looking metal tubs.  I didn't even spend that much time in the latter, as I had the sense it was almost taboo to enter his office. I remember it being distinctly uncluttered in comparison to my mother's office. This makes more than enough sense now.  While his office lacked the childhood playroom-like allure of the rest of the office, it harbored perhaps the best hidden secret of all: beef jerky. Tucked away on a shelf above his desk was a package of jerky I made a habit of raiding on a shamefully regular basis. It was only later that I came to appreciate his office's minimalistic decor and the little momentos and few photos displayed therein. Ryland and I played to our hearts' content in that office, and John was always a good sport about our undoubtedly counter-productive presence. Again, it was later in life when I came to view the office with an overwhelming sense of nostalgia that I truly appreciated the traces of John's witty humor that pervaded the office.  Perhaps even earlier than his outdoorsy-ness, I think my first perception of John was that he was funny--funny in the wise-guy sense, a brand of humor that suited his resting grin.  This Thursday was the first time I revealed to him that I stole his beef jerky. I promised him when he got out of the hospital I would take him to Costco to repay my debts. 

In high school and to a greater extent in college, as one might expect with maturity and age, I came to appreciate the company, conversations, and insights of those I had always classified as my "parents' friends".  They had all shaped me in some way over the years, offering a framework for how I defined friendship and envisioned my own life and comradery in the future. Their experiences became more relatable and my attention span was significantly greater than that of my 5-, 10-, or even 15-year old self.

It seems natural that John, with his steady presence at my mom's office and his regular visits to my mom's other office, most often joined us for dinner, as our family tended to eat out quite a bit.  These enjoyable dinners and my growing appreciation for the countless professional photographs framed throughout my mom and dad's offices and home perhaps hinted at our budding friendship as well.  What really cemented our bond, though, was my forray into hiking and outdoor activities.  I knew from my parents and his photos that he was a nature buff, but it wasn't until my mom suggested I hang out with him and ask him questions that I realized how much I could really learn from him.

Within a short period of time, it became clear to me that years of valuable time and potential tutelage had been lost. I'm pretty sure there wasn't a single visit home from college that didn't consist of a dinner with John or nature walk. He took me to REI to buy my first backpacking equipment, and at the outset of my gap year after college, our nature walks became almost a weekly routine. His wealth of knowledge and experience  made each jaunt a series of beautiful learning moments, and it wasn't long before our conversations became much more personal. I vented to him about everything, from my controversial decision to take a gap year to the trivialities of family disputes. His rich history with my parents gave him a deeper understanding of what I felt and helped provide a context for almost all of the peculiar family matters that I experienced growing up.  He told me hilarious stories about my parents, and he told me about his adventures and the friendships he made along the way. He took me kayaking in Dana point, and he showed me little pockets of nature in otherwise overdeveloped Orange County. More than anything, John seemed to get me in a way that really no one else did. His steadiness, his logic, his interests, his familiarity, and his humor made him the perfect sounding board for helping me avoid the quarter-life crisis. Grounded. Level-headed. Moral. Humble. Curious. Non-judgmental. These and a hundred other amazing attributes made John one of the most interesting, comfortable friends one could have.

As his disease worsened, opportunities for outdoor exploration dwindled, and soon we were resigned to slow walks around Dana Point's "Baby Beach."  This had no bearing on the level of enjoyment we both derived from these walks, but the diminishing activity took its toll on his spirits, though to a much lesser extent than it would have for the average person. For such a textbook pragmatist, John remained incredibly optimistic whenever he updated me on his condition. Self-pity wasn't in his wheel house. 

John was one of, if not, the most significant figures of our JMT thruhike last year. His wisdom, advice, and absolutely unwavering support helped make the trip so successful. Though family and friends certainly made the journey possible, only one person never once questioned our ability to complete the hike from the inception of our plan to hike the trail: John. For Maddie, especially, I think it was not just his belief in her ability to complete it, but it was the "duh, of course you'll finish it" manner in which he said it. This likely speaks to his experience and knowledge of us, but to two relatively inexperienced backpackers, this sort of unqualified support was indispensable for the tougher moments on the trail. 

And it seemed only fitting that he would be the one to pick us up at the end, arrival sign in hand, like the shepard welcoming home his flock. His condition had progressed to the point that altitude, even at the Portal, posed a bit of a challenge. His mountaineering days were by his own admission, done for now, and I feel like in some ways he was able to live vicariously through our adventures, as he was one of I'm sure a small handful of people who read every word of my blog.  I still remember the drive home like it was yesterday, the cooler of goodies he welcomed us with, the epic stop at In N Out, and the regaling of trail life with a veteran. To think that his days of adventures are over, over mountains, through desert, and by sea, is something I just cannot wrap my head around.  

I will cherish the night Maddie, John and I got dinner and spent the night exchanging stories and photos of our adventure, and in turn he set up his old school projector and showed us his slides of his own excursions through the Sierras and Idaho wilderness. He made us incredible prints from our journey, and we rejoiced in the memories of nature's boundless comfort.  These and so many more memories, sunny Southern California hikes, family dinners, laughter, long phone calls, and even teaching me to drive a moving truck will be how I remember my friend, John. 

John has been one of my biggest advocates, a voice of reason to calm my mother and quell my father, a therapist, a mentor, and a loyal friend.  The impending loss of such a person is unbearable and the emotion is so raw, I struggle to find the words to write this.  I am unsure how I will grapple with my grief on the trail. Indeed the hardest part so far has been having to leave him behind. But my mom assures me I will be taking him with me along the entire journey, to the most beautiful scenes on earth, to the places that embody his spirit and captured his heart.  He didn't have children of his own, but his wisdom lives on in me, and I will continue to share it with those fortunate enough to reap its rewards, starting with Liam on this trip of a lifetime.  I will continue to hike, to seek adventure, to practice common sense, and to lead a healthy, enriching life, and every step I take will be in his honor. When the going gets tough, I'll keep my head up, if only because John would ask, "what's the point in keeping it down?"  In a battle between his cynicism and his optimism, though one was often the heavy favorite, I found the latter to prevail more often than not in matters of counsel. 

And so I stood there Thursday night, my medical mask soggy with tears, and bade my friend farewell. I told him many things that night, many of which I've mentioned above--all things I will always wish I could have said to him the week before. We have not had enough time together.  I don't want him to miss Jon Stewart's last show.  I want him to see Stephen Colbert on tv again and let me know what he thinks. I want to look at more of his slides. I want him to continue reading my blog. I want him to teach me everything he knows about photography. I want to hear the story behind every photograph that decorates his home.  I want to tell him about dental school, and the Navy. I want to go on walks, and ride in his ancient VW Orange bug. I just want my friend around.

This post may be revisited and revised as I continue to reflect on how much John means to me.  I have every hope in the world that my friend will recover. Every bone of my body aches with desperation that he will make it through this and be in Yosemite to pick me up in a couple weeks.  And if he does come out of this coma long enough to read these words, I hope he can then find the strength to carry on, knowing how goddam much he means to us, to his family, his longtime friends, to my brother, to me. I shudder to think about the pain I'm leaving my parents in as we drive hundreds of miles away, unable to comfort them in any way. But as broken as they feel, as we all feel, I know we'll band together in remembrance of one of the best human beings I will ever have the pleasure of knowing, let alone calling my friend.  This trip is for you, John.

A year ago, today