Friday, August 8, 2014

DAY 20: Zero/Rest Day at Rae Lakes

Remember those plans I layed out last night for a glorious rest day of swimming in the lake, lounging, laughing, strolling about merrily? Yeah, well, we should have known the Sierras well enough by now than to expect anything to go the way we want it to.  At around 3 in the morning, a light drizzle started to come down--nothing alarming, not even so much as to will us out of the tent to take our clothes off the clothes line.  BIG MISTAKE.

From there, the usual build began until it was an all out downpour lasting...just guess how long. Seriously, guess.  A couple hours? Nope. A few hours? No way.  Let me be specific here: 12 HOURS!  I slept off and on through the night, waking up occasionally to wonder when the rain would let up.  Around 8, what is usually a late wake up, I was awake for good, and Maddie and I realized we were condemned to another cramped afternoon in the tent.

My sad face some 8 hours into the deluge

Obviously there are worse things in the world, but this incessant rain really takes its toll.  And this says nothing of my most immediate concern, which was for Matt.  I hoped he was warm enough, yeah, but mostly I felt terrible he had hiked all this way to be rewarded with an awful rainy day.  To make matters worse, with nature knocking loudly at my door, I was faced with a difficult decision of either braving the hypothermic conditions or using a wag bag a mere 1.5 feet from my girlfriend.  She gave me all the support in the world, bless her heart, but I opted for the former, unwilling to breach that frontier yet. I figured the insidious flatulence that perpetually perfumed our tent was enough to have subjected either of us to.  So when the urge to go finally willed me to put on my rain gear and step out for a minute, the sky looked painfully similar to that of our Evolution Lake disastrous weather day, with no end in sight.  I went to check on Matt, and thankfully, he looked fast asleep in his cozy cacoon. 

With hunger pangs beginning to claw at our insides, we soon became a little restless.  Maddie and I kept each other company for a while, joking for the umpteenth time about the things we miss at home, and then we transitioned to reading, and back and forth it went for hours and hours. I made occasional forays outside to get us all water and snacks, but each time left me colder and wetter than the last.  The last 4 hours began looking pretty grim, as a combination of condensation and insufficient seem-sealing on the tent (if you want a job done right...) led to the progressive dripping and subsequent soaking of us beneath the tarp. My pack towel came in handy, as I remained diligent, wiping our down sleeping bags every couple of minutes or so.  For those who don't know, down, while luxurious and warm for it's weight when dry, is utterly useless when wet.  With our last line of defense for warmth being threatened, we began discussing the very real possibility of hiking out with Matt the following day.  Maddie was in the worst spirits yet, and nothing I could say could cheer her up, so she resigned herself to reading her kindle app to distract herself.  And did I mention it was snowing on the mountains surrounding Rae Lakes?  

Eventually, we had to face facts. Our bags were getting wet, our clothes were soaking wet, and it was nearly freezing outside, prime conditions for hypothermia.  And this says nothing of Maddie's inflamed Achilles and my infected toe.  I kept telling Maddie it would be okay and that if we wanted to finish, we could always wait out the storm by exiting with Matt at kearsarge pass, grab a motel room, and reenter when conditions improved.  I tried to keep our optimism alive, but if I'm being honest, the next few hours really were us coming to terms with the potential premature end to our journey. 

Just at the 12 hour mark, around 3:30pm, the rain finally died down.  It was miraculous. I was the first out, surveying the scene and grabbing bits and pieces of information from other hikers.  Apparently the ranger informed one of them that moisture was expected through Tuesday.  This did not bode well for our schedule, as all of our stuff was still wet, but with a little sunshine poking its rays through the grey quilt above us, a spark of hope was ignited.  Taking advantage of the respite, I set about cooking dinner for the three of us--coffee, ramen, and chilli for Matt and pasta for Maddie and me.  It felt so liberating to be outside again!  

We keep it classy in the wild

Pasta, wine, and friends, what's not to love?

We spent the next couple of hours drinking our wine and eating our dinner, ecstatic to be out of the tents.  I could tell Matt felt a little unprepared for the weather, having not brought the right clothing, but he was a champ about it.  I could also tell the isolation was already starting to affect him, as he had been cloistered by himself for almost 18 hours.  Nevertheless we thoroughly enjoyed our libations, and after dinner Matt and I took a stroll to the ranger station.  This ranger was no ranger Dave, let me tell you.  My main bone to pick with him is that he didn't inform anyone of the possibility of weather when he demanded our permits the day before.  When a storm this severe and abnormal is imminent, I would expect a courtesy heads up, but nope.  Oh well. We made it through.

Um...snow way is that snow

Beautiful Rae Lakes

We repositioned our tents so we could more easily talk to Matt at night, and we braced ourselves for another spell in the tent.  Despite being stuck inside all day, I was fairly tired, probably from the numerous ventures outside that left me numb and shivering.  Tomorrow we will make decisions as we see fit, depending on the weather conditions.  If it all ends tomorrow, I want to make clear that we will be back to finish where we left off.  We already have talked to numerous jmt hikers who are calling it quits, opting not to risk hypothermia out here, so we would not be the only ones.  But I have a feeling neither one of us is really willing to give up on our goal.  We're not foolish, but we won't give up without a fight.

Finally when the rain ceased

Crossing my numb fingers and toes that we get cooperative weather tomorrow!  And if we have to postpone the end of our adventure, then so be it, and thanks for your support and hopefully you've enjoyed the blog so far!  Goodnight everyone!

What. A. Hero.

DAY 19: Arrowhead Lake to Rae Lakes

I really don't like to clutter my blog with negativity, much less start a post with it, but today was an absolute low point for me.  I woke up this morning around 5:30 with my big toes throbbing with incredible pain, with the right one giving me especially more grief.  I got up early before Maddie was even wanted to open her eyes, and I retrieved some food.  As I sat eating, struggling to even move my toe, I ran over a whole host of scenarios in my head as to what this could be and how it could affect me.  Since Muir Trail Ranch, it had seemed that the corners of my big toes where the nail meets the skin, we're experiencing some soreness.  I had been diligent about clipping my nails before the trip, and I haven't really experienced ingrown toe nails before.  At the ranch I had Maddie inspect them, and she said they looked perfectly normal to her, so I haven't thought much of it--just that the toe box of my boot was a little too crowded. But now that I couldn't even get my foot into my boot, I started thinking that it was infected.  I went over my theory with Maddie and she looked very worried, probably similar to how I looked when she came down with her Achilles issue.  I laid out a game plan for her: that I would ask one of the members of another group, who I had overheard had some sort of medical background, if he could take a look at it before jumping to conclusions.  I don't want to come off as a hypochondriac, but out here where your only way out is a 13 mile grueling day hike at the least, these little things loom large in one's mind as potential trip-enders.  I could manage the pain for 5 days, but I'm not sure I would be willing to do that if it meant blood poisoning or spoiling my ability to dance all night at my brother's wedding in a couple weeks (dancing is easily one of, if not my favorite, part of weddings).

So weighted down with an extra helping of anxiety, we packed up slowly and only left camp at 10:30. I opted to wear my crocs for the two and change mile trek up to Rae Lakes. Where we would anxiously await Matt's arrival with our resupply.  I dreaded telling him that we'd have to hike out with him and that his toil had been for naught.  I tried to distance myself from such thoughts and just focus on finding someone more knowledgeable to look at my toe. I ran into Terry, a firefighter and medic, and without showing him, he expressed his concern that the infection would turn septic and I might need to exit.  This isn't the biggest deal in the world, I know, but honestly, the prospect of not completing my journey left me crestfallen.  I knew Maddie would be disappointed as well, though perhaps delighted that a) she gets her in n out sooner than expected and b) she wasn't the reason we were going home.  She was very supportive though, reminding me that what we had accomplished so far was still incredible.  

Hiking in crocs was surprisingly comfortable, actually, though incredibly dorky

Arrowhead Lake from above

That was until a member of the group that gave Maddie some clif bars yesterday told me that another hiker they were camped with was a doctor and he would be happy to look at it.  I hustled over to their camp and showed him the damage.  Within moments, he confirmed my suspicions, and told me it was infected.  He asked if I wanted to finish the trip, to which I have the obvious response of yes.  So he went to his med kit and pulled out some antibiotic, a four day course, and offered them to me.  He recommended I soak the toes in hot water as well, and I should be able to finish out the hike without much risk.  I cannot express how grateful I am for his help and generosity, as he has saved my trip.  When I asked him if this was overkill, he assured me it wasn't and that he wouldn't continue without the antibiotic.  I know I haven't finished the trip yet, but just this man's kindness was enough to bring tears to my eyes, as he gave me a second chance to carry out my goal to its completion, without any gaps or interruptions.  I know some may say, "it doesn't matter if you do it all at once, you can go back and finish the rest later!"  And you have a point.  But if you know me I think you could also put yourself in my shoes and imagine how devastating that feeling would be.  Regardless, here I am in a position to continue hiking, and I feel so lucky. Thank you friendly doctor from New Zealand, thank you so much! 


Rae Lakes and Glen Pass


With Fin Dome in the background

This positive news breathed new life back into the day, enabling us to enjoy the incredible scenery to its fullest and look forward to Matt's arrival.  Can I just take a second and point out how amazing Matt is for doing this?  He's essentially matching our hardest day on the trail, and doing it with a pack nearly 50% heavier than mine.  It's mind boggling, really.  Yet another person for whom we are so grateful to have as a member of our support network.  We could not thank you enough Matt!

So the day crawled by as we excitedly awaited Matt stumbling into camp. We had left notes along the trail and at the ranger station, and we were slightly nervous that we hadn't been able to contact him over Muir Pass, as we had thought we would.  But we had faith in the plan, and sure enough close to 5 on clock, I hear his voice call our names through the trees.  To say this reunion was rejuvenating would be the understatement of the century.  He looked like he had struggled pretty hard over the TWO passes, which he confirmed to be incredibly tough with that load, so I immediately set about putting up his tent and getting him situated and comfortable.  Unpacking his pack was like Christmas.  Chips, poptarts, bars, and that badass even lugged over a BOTTLE OF WINE.  I repeat: a bottle of wine.  Tomorrow's rest day is going to be glorious.  


After a truly monstrous hike over two passes


The one, the only, Matt Shackley

So we unpacked his things, ate dinner, and simply exchanged stories about the last few week's happenings.  I was pleasantly surprised to hear my mom hadn't called him with some worrying concern or another.  More than anything, sitting around our tent site was just a breath of fresh air, having our friend to keep us company.  We sat and talked for quite a while almost until 8, when the three of us hopped into our tent and talked, enjoying views of the sunset out of the vestibules.  Once we were all tired, Matt went back to his tent and we went to sleep...but not before I pulled the hilarious prank of opening Maddie's sleeping pad valve.  The funniest part actually wasn't watching her laugh and struggle to blow it back up while she still sat on top of it (a futile effort). It was the way she got her revenge, saying all these nice wonderful things about the day and how happy she was to be continuing onward...all a distraction while her hand reached over my head and did the same thing to me.  Touché.


The amazing view from our tent

So now it's bedtime, and we could not be happier with a friend, some quality R&R tomorrow, and more food!  Goodnight folks!


I get by with a little help from my friends

DAY 18: Lake Marjorie to Arrowhead Lake

Last night was the 5th or so occurrence of Maddie's midnight dream episodes.  The way these typically play out is with Maddie waking up in a semi-panicked voice muttering sometimes incomprehensible things.  More frequently though, she has woken up asking things like, "isn't the water going to soak our clothes?!" and "why do you keep talking to me?"  The latter took place last night and creeped me the hell out because I had not been speaking to her, leading me to shine my headlamp out our tent in search of someone who was...to no avail.  Meanwhile Maddie plops her precious head right back down and falls asleep, leaving my heart still racing and my mind dumbfounded at what just happened.  Naturally, I wake up at 6 quite groggily and humorously inform Maddie, who hasn't the slightest recollection of the night's events, of what happened.  It's all okay because it makes for a pretty funny story.

Our epically long day today followed a similar trajectory to many of our other days so far.  We woke up, felt great through about noon, when all the little chronic pains and fatigue really dragged us down until the end.  But we made it, bum heel and back and all.

As planned, we woke up earlier at 6 and were hiking by 8.  Boom. Already a two and a half hour jump on yesterday's progress.  The climb to Pinchot Pass was one of the steepest ascents, it seemed, but it was also one of the most enjoyable. Eating more and accumulated leg strength have gone a long way in gifting us productive mornings.  The sun was shining, there was a chill to the air, and we were cruising. 

On our way up Pinchot

Morning climbs are the best!

At the top, we chatted for a while with hikers from several groups we've been leapfrogging.  One of them had a member drop out I think before muir trail ranch, but that person failed to contact the resupplier.  So now between them the three of them are carrying one person's food AND bear can. I would jump off the nearest cliff (and there are many here) if I had to carry two bear cans.  The silver lining for us, of course, is that Maddie scored a few cliff bars from them, which was great because Maddie is slightly low on food. When we all meet at Rae Lakes again, hopefully we have some down time to hang out!  The top was impressive, but the chilly, biting wind forced us not to extend our stay.  

Southside of Pinchot Pass

Looking back up at Pinchot

And so we began our incredibly long descent to Woods Creek, 7.6 miles of gorgeous, if tediously long, downhill.  We both enjoyed this first two thirds of the day, as it afforded incredible views accompanied by a nice cool breeze.  There were clouds, but we didn't really worry too much.  

Silly break time on our way down

Woods Creek was great!

Curry and rice...now you see why I miss my favorite restaurants...

At Woods Creek we made the decision to cook dinner before proceeding up the 1700 feet or so to Arrowhead Lake.  So at 3pm, we made our curry and rice that I dehydrated, and it turned out to be pretty tasty.  During our chow fest, one of the Redlands hikers, Terry, stopped and said hello before crossing the bridge.  It was at this point that we suspected we'd make fast friends with this group, as he complimented Maddie's hiking speed.  Music to her little ears.  If you want Maddie to instantly like you, complimenting her athletic prowess is as sure fire a way as you can find.  As dinner progressed, we noticed some potentially foul weather brewing up the canyon we would be climbing. Whereas most of the other groups we have been leapfrogging with decided to stop at woods creek, we felt optimistic that the sunshine would hold out until we made it to Arrowhead Lake.

Woods Creek suspension bridge

Coolest. Thing. Ever. (Almost)

So after dinner, we picked up hiking at the awesome Woods Creek suspension bridge.  This thing truly is awesome, made all the more so by the fact that several wooden planks along its length are cracked or broken completely (this fact actually counted against the bridge's awesomeness in Maddie's book...to each his own).  After giving Maddie a quick scare by jiggling the cables a bit as she crossed, I followed her, enjoying every second like a little kid on his first roller coaster (assuming this kid liked roller coasters).  

From there we began our ascent, which began slowly--hey, you hike 4.7 miles uphill with packs after a curry dinner and see how you feel!  We soon picked up the pace though, with the help of Gwen Stefani's new album blaring in Maddie's earphones and Tina Fey's book in mine.  We were going strong until Baxter Creek.  Ohh Baxter Creek, you wolf in sheep's clothing.  As the crossing seemed a little vexing at first, I tried one way across rocks while Maddie then attempted a log crossing down stream about 20 yards to see where it would get us.  About halfway across the rocks, I looked over to see Maddie slip and fall hard on her butt on the log. Immediately I unclipped my backpack and very nearly dropped it right in the creek before gathering the composure to take it with me to the shore. I scrambled to the grass, dragging my headphones through the creek in my haste, flung my stuff down and ran across the first dry log to where she sat crying. Although I'm sure the situation could have been handled better by a more seasoned professional, I was actually very surprised by how quickly my wilderness first aid training came back to my head.  I unclipped her backpack and moved it aside on the log, and helped to get her off the precariously slippery logs and sitting calmly on flat ground.  Probably the most useful thing I did was something I did by accident. While hoisiting her backpack out of the way I slipped on the very same log, landing my right leg up to my knee in the creek, soaking my boot completely.  Although this may seem like one royal pain in the ass for me, it worked wonders on Maddie, turning her crying into laughter.  Note to future rescuers, nothing will put a smile on the victim's face like you screwing up in a comical way.  At least...it worked for me.  I went and retrieved both of our bags and forded them across the creek, where I met Maddie sitting on a rock.  She was hurting, as she had fallen right on her tail bone.  Per protocol, I asked her a couple sensory questions, and she complied, but she felt silly and weird with me asking these formal questions.  For the millionth time, she was fine.  So we took a break, she ate a bar, and I held her while we sat laughing about my own tumble into the creek.  It was a scary moment, but we finally decided to keep on moving, albeit at a much slower pace. 

Wet boots are no fun

Late day climbs are as terrible as morning climbs are awesome

At the Arrowhead Lake outlet

She really dug deep for that climb up to the lake, and we eventually made it around 6:45, our latest hiking day yet.  There, I told her to go sit and relax by the beautiful lake while I took care of all the setup.  I was grateful we had already eaten dinner, so we just climbed in soon after I finished.  Upon lying in bed, I realized just how much pain I was in.  My back, which has been getting progressively more irritable, was stiff and almost throbbing like it was a couple months ago.  I couldn't imagine having gone on this trip without the help of my physical therapist, Mandy from Newsport PT, in the months leading up to it.  But more troubling, we're my big toes, whose corners were pulsing with pain every time I wiggled them.  I chalked it up to being crammed in a wet boot for almost 2 hours, and am now about to try and get some sleep.

So here we are, battered and bruised, but having vanquished another brutal day.  Missing home quite a bit right now, but at least we've got each other!  

Another pass down, two to go before Whitney!

DAY 17: Lower Palisade Lake to Just Before Lake Marjorie

So other than the fact that our dinner of some sort of delicious bean chilli last night sort of stunk up the tent, we enjoyed a virtually weather-free night.  I'm not one for star-gazing, but their brightness and just plain visibility out here are stunning.  In fact, I'm not sure I've ever seen a sky so beautiful.

We woke up late at 7:30, and we treated ourselves to an even more leisurely pack up routine.  You see, most backpackers like to get on the trail as or before the sun comes up.  We, on the other hand, tend to take our sweet time, so much so that I consider getting out before 9 to be commendable.  We have agreed that for this last leg of our trip, we will do our best to wake up earlier so as to make our ascent of Whitney before sunrise less jarring.  

Cruising past lower Palisade Lake was torture. It was arguably the most swim-worthy, beautiful lake I've seen so far, but we saw some scattered clouds and opted to keep pushing. If I could come back and go swim anywhere, it would be this beautiful, hard to reach lake.  We then climbed up and up and up toward Mather Pass. I found the scenery today to be breath-taking, but Maddie considered most of it a little too desolate for her liking.  I think her slight lack of enthusiasm today may have to do with how much our emotional and physical reserves were drained yesterday.  

Lower Palisade Lake

This place is unreal

Up to Mather Pass we go

Still, we pushed on, enjoying the sun while it lasted, for some thick ominous looking clouds were beginning to cluster behind and ahead of us.  On our way up we ran into crews from the CCC, which I believe stands for Civilian Conservation Corps (correct me if I'm wrong), working to improve the path up over Mather.  And boy, could the path use the work, as there were substantial sections of rocky terrain that made progress somewhat slow.  As we climbed though, the views got better and better.  I just can't get over how remote and vast this expanse of wilderness is.  Although we see at least 20 people a day, it feels like it belongs to only me.  Just soaking in the grandeur of it all makes me happy to be out here when any pain sets in.

Looking down at the Palisades

The last few feet to the top!

Over the other side of Mather

Loving this scenery

Another gratuitous selfie

Cruising to the bottom

We didn't spend too much time on Mather. It was spectacular, but we didn't want to be caught in any sketchy weather.  So down we went, some 2000 feet, with beautiful views from the plateau toward Pinchot Pass.  I was loving this section, evidenced by the several videos I filmed which I sadly can't post here. It wa such a nice, gentle grade to the bottom.  Maddie, feeling the effects of yesterday, was not enjoying it as much.  I proposed a hypothetical scenario in which a helicopter landed right in front of her, ready to take her home at her command, and I asked if she would take the ride.  We both laughed when she gave an exaggeratedly pensive "ummmmmm..."  But in the end, we both agreed we'd send the helicopter away passenger-less, as we've come too far, and afterall, we still are having a pretty good time.  We are also somewhat fatigued and homesick.  One can only rant about wanting Baja Fish Taco (or in her case, hot chocolate and Netflix) so many times before it becomes an unhealthy obsession.

Toward Pinchot we go

By the Bench Lake junction looking back toward Mather in the distance

Raise your hand if you want one of these little guys for a pet, oh that's right, who wouldn't?

Speaking of food, I thought I'd share quickly what we eat day to day, for those curious about such things.  Today I had half a bag of my oatmeal (just the right amount so as to not make me gag, which I view as a HUGE win), some turkey jerky, a tortilla with almond butter, and some banana chips for breakfast.  Personally, I try to squeeze in 600-700 calories for breakfast to get me going.  Throughout the day, I usually snack on 4 bars of roughly 200 calories each, as well as turkey jerky, banana chips, and dried blueberries, cranberries, or apples as needed/wanted.  For the bars I've given myself quite a variety, and if you are interested, I've tried just about every one out there and can give some suggestions.  These snacks usually last me until dinner, where I usually get in about 500 more calories. Tonight we had Maddie's (and mine) absolute favorite: trader Joes white cheddar mac and cheese.  For dessert I usually have another tortilla with peanut butter and some jerky and banana chips.  Tonight I tried to get a little extra because I woke up cold last night, which for me is a sure fire sign that I didn't eat enough.

Once at the bottom of our day's descent, we faced the choice of either ending early for the day, and this giving ourselves a hell of a climb in the morning to get over Pinchot Pass, OR climbing a thousand feet and a couple miles to our goal of Lake Marjorie.  We couldn't tell if we'd get rain or not, but we tentatively decided to push up the switchbacks to the lake.  On the way, we passed the Redlands group and were tempted to camp there, but decided to push just a little further.  We found a decent campsite just before the lake and just decided to pull up there.  The clouds all around us are dark and gloomy, but we're dry and can't complain because it's still quite beautiful.  

Looking backward en route to Lake Marjorie 

Cooking up some mac and cheese under these gloomy skies #PlacesMyPotGoes

Tonight's stormy sky made a great light show around sunset!

Tomorrow we are likely going to cut our originally planned 13 mile day short, and shoot for Woods Creek, where I am immensely looking forward to crossing the awesome suspension bridge!  With an early morning start, hopefully we'll beat the weather over the pass and down the 3500 feet.  With the end almost in sight, and nearly 2 weeks without talking to our families, we are excited to finish out strong.  And we are really looking forward, as I've said pretty much every day, to seeing Matt for a few days.  Fingers crossed our rendezvous goes according to plan!  

Sixth pass I think? Woo Hoo! 

Goodnight everyone!

DAY 16: Somewhere Near Big Pete Meadow to Lower Palisade Lake

We've officially completed two thirds of the John Muir Trail. I'd say we feel a mixture of emotions at this point—sadness that most of our trip is behind us, pride for what we've overcome, and an ever intensifying longing for the host of home comforts I've written about ad nauseum already.  Could someone give Baja Fish Taco a call and warn them of the black hole that will soon consume their restaurant in 9 days? Thanks.

Today was one of the most emotionally difficult days so far.  We woke up to nothing but grey skies and the lingering smell of a forest fire, which I would later learn is burning off-trail at Cartridge Creek.  The prospect of packing up your cozy little home and hoisting it on your back, knowing full well the very strong likelihood of you getting soaked and chilled to the bone later in the day, is daunting to say the least.  And it's not so much an individual rainy day that is gut-wrenching, it's going through the same routine day after day with no way to dry your clothes or charge your phone to take photos of the picturesque, if slightly gloomy, scenery. Nevertheless, we woke up and took care of business as usual, bracing ourselves for yet another consecutive day of unruly weather. 

I made a bold move and made an entire bag of my dreaded oatmeal, having separated myself from the once fantasy backpacker breakfast that crushed my dreams.  It was...okay. I choked the last few bites down, vowing to only make half a bag at a time for the next few days.  And this leads us to the game we like to call (in a timbre only Bob Barker's voice can conjure) Which Thing Did Graham Eat For Breakfast Today?! a game in which you, the reader, are tasked with distinguishing which picture shows what Graham ate for breakfast and which one depicts a pile of horse shit.  Ready?  


Option Number One

Option Number 2 (pun intended)

If you guessed Option Number One, then you are absolutely correct, and you have won a lifetime supply of my oatmeal. If you guessed Option Number 2, then don't feel too bad, as they are by all accounts indistinguishable.  

Once on the trail, we began cruising at a quick pace down Le Conte Canyon toward the ranger station.  We stopped sparingly, as we felt determined to make it the 13 miles or so to Palisade Lakes.  


Log crossings are fun

Yet another exciting wildlife sighting...but it's no bear...
Looking down Le Conte Canyon

On the way down I started to think about one of the inspirations for taking this trip, the documentary Mile...Mile and a Half. For those who I haven't told, this was a film that debuted last year in which a team of film makers lugged all of their equipment along the entire trail to document the journey. It's beautiful, funny, and inspiring.  When you watch the movie (and I strongly suggest you do.  It's on Netflix, so if you've read this far into my blog you owe it to yourself to watch it), you are presented with an idyllic view of the wilderness.  Although it makes the best possible attempt strives to capture the reality of being out here for long stretches at a time, the hardships just cannot be felt through the screen (although that's probably some 4D technology someone out there is working on).  When I dreamt about going on this trip, I thought of it mostly in reference to what I had seen on the screen, and I hoped that actually being out here would stimulate those same romanticized visions I felt during the planning process.  Having seen the film an embarrassing number of times (approaching double digits), I realized today that although bits and pieces in my mind sync up perfectly with my own experience, I have developed an entirely distinct set of feelings toward my adventure.  In a way, I'm glad I'm not living someone else's journey (even though they experienced much less rain), as it's uniquely ours and we earned these fantastic memories with our pain, sweat, and tears.  I'm not sure if I communicated that as well as I could have if I weren't so tired, but it is something I noticed today.  

Come to think of it, I'm not sure if most of what I have written has come off the way I meant it.  At least I'm trying.  It would be much easier to just post the photos and give repetitive accounts of scenery descriptions before hitting the sack.  Example:  We woke up early, we walked down the canyon, we got tired, but then we saw a beautiful meadow, and then we cooked dinner, and now it's bedtime.  Boring right? I think posts like that read as though the writer feels obligated to blog, which has engendered yet another term I call oblogation.  I look back on some of my entries and there are only a couple of paragraphs I found to feel oblogated where I was too tired to give any uniquely personal insight into what was going on.  For those sections, I apologize.  And for those wondering why I don't just put the phone away and enjoy the solitude, I have a couple things to say.  For one, we get no service, evidenced by you reading this long after I actually wrote it.  I'm not checking Facebook or sports scores.  Also, after I look at the stars for a little bit, it gets too cold, so I go inside the tent and there's nothing else to do when Maddie drifts off and I'm not quite ready to sleep yet.  Most importantly though, is the fact that it makes me feel like I'm communicating with the people who have helped make this trip possible with some form of support.  The way I see it, so many people have given me the support and encouragement to be here making this dream a reality, that it's the least I could do in return to let them accompany me from the comfort of their homes...with access to fresh food...and showers...and a bed...shiver.  So whether you're family, friend, or random internet stranger, I hope you enjoy my ramblings from my nightly wilderness home.  

On the way down the canyon, we came across these odd wire fences.  Perplexed, we stood wondering whether we had taken a wrong turn.  Referencing our maps though, we resigned ourselves to scaling the obstacles (which I later realized upon closer examination are very easy to unlatch and walk through).  As removing packs is far too much of a hassle, we made fools of ourselves climbing the wooden structure.  It was this series of gates that inspired my idea for the next most popular summer Olympic event behind speed waking: the 354,056 meter hurdles.


Maddie's way

My way

I call this maneuver The Nut Cracker

We got to the ranger station and I asked about the forest fire situation to make sure we were safe to proceed.  Also, she informed us that the crummy weather should only last through today.  This was great news except for the fact that we had to get through today.  So we embarked at a brisk pace down the canyon again.  John had raved of Le Conte Canyon, and  I see why. Not even the gloom of the afternoon could ruin how beautiful Grouse Meadow was.  

Grouse Meadow
Once we took the turn east toward Mather Pass, it started to drizzle.  It wasn't so bad at first, but we had yet to take an appreciable break, and we had more than 2,500 feet of climbing to do.  The drizzle intensified into a thrizzle (if this silly term doesn't register with you, I suggest you read one of my last posts), and the trail became incredibly muddy and almost overgrown in places (trail crews, where you at?!). It was very slow going, a trudge if ever you saw one, despite the gradual grade of the slope.  We only heard two very distant thunder claps, and the clouds were not nearly as ominous as those on our Evolution Valley climb, but we felt a little cautious nonetheless.  It was only a few miles in that Maddie started to lose it a little bit. The abysmal weather was taking it's toll, and it was the first time that I could sense a real longing for home.  I called for a break under some dense tree cover so we could eat a proper lunch and discuss our options.  She was worried about climbing up in such terrible conditions (we had already passed a few tents hunkered down for the long haul this afternoon), but she also didn't relish the idea of climbing 3,500 feet tomorrow over Mather Pass and beyond.  These thoughts dominated our vacillation between setting up camp or plodding onward.  Instead of belaboring the troublesome decision, I tried to keep it light and talk about other stuff while we snacked. Sure enough the rain slowly abated to the point that I could see life reemerging in Maddie's eyes. Though full of butter cookies and almonds, she was hungry--hungry to finish out the day strong. I didn't want to baby her if she felt confident to proceed (as long as we deemed the weather safe), but I also didn't want to push her past her breaking point.  Assessing the weather, we both agreed to press on.  Once again I felt super proud of her, as we hoisted our packs for the long haul up the "golden staircase."  

Sigh...the closest I'll likely come to a bear sighting

And our rainy day struggles begin...
Beginning our ascent of "The Golden Staircase"

Sunlight teasing us through the clouds

The ascent was steady and seemed to last forever, but we felt energized and excited to complete our goal for the day.  I didn't actually know that Andre the Giant was in charge of the engineers who designed the monstrous steps that made up the staircase.  As pictures below attest, these things are massive, requiring considerable effort to climb with a heavy pack.  The step size struck as even more surprising considering the average size for adults was shorter back in the time if the steps' creation.  But not even these not-so-golden-more-like-grayish-perhaps-even-reddish-or-tan-in-places behemoth steps could slow us down.  Especially given the fact that the sun decided to break through the clouds and illuminate the beautiful valley we had been cursing only 30 minutes prior.  Though we didn't want to get our hopes up, we could not have been more excited to see the sun—talk about a total 360 degree turnaround!  


Sunshine giving us hope that the rain will not return
Maddie and the wretched muddy canyon...that is actually quite beautiful after the fact...

Hard to tell, but it takes a sizeable lunge, much deeper than for stadiums, to overcome these bad boys

Where we were

Where we're headed...don't get too crazy, we're not climbing those things

By the time we finally found a suitable camp spot next to lower Palisade Lake, the sun basted us with it's warming rays. We could finally charge the phone a bit, dry out some clothes, and enjoy a delicious trail dinner (it's all relative, folks) surrounded by some spectacular scenery.  It was a very, very good evening.  Tomorrow we'll head over Mather Pass, topping the highest elevation either of us has yet climbed.  Matt,we are really looking forward to seeing you (and Maddie's really looking forward to getting her resupply of Oreos, so if you somehow don't make it on time and get hungry...please, whatever you do, DO NOT EAT THE OREOS!)


Not sure if we've ever been so happy to see the sun

Some downward dog by the Palisade Lakes

Looking forward to Mather Pass tomorrow #PlacesMyPotGoes

Progress on the facial hair growth...looking forward to getting my hands on a razor

Some pretty pink clouds before bed

Our day in elevation

Now I'm truly spent, and I'm looking forward to sleeping in a bit.  Goodnight from paradise...well sort of paradise...like, sometimes it is, sometimes it isn't....you know, let's just stay away from labels...I'll stick with goodnight from our cozy little transient wilderness cubbyhole...or something like that.


Here's to those who get us through the toughest of times!