Friday, August 14, 2015

Day 1 JMT The Sequel: Breakfast Burritos, Altitude, and Grief

I awoke this morning to the gentle nudge of Liam, prodding me awake. It was really dark in the motel room, with a bright square of light passing through the window. Bleary-eyed, I brushed my teeth and we set about planning our morning. Liam had come down with a serious case of nausea, so breakfast was not on the table for him, pun intended.  Instead, Anne and I drove to the visitor center, procured our permit, and then went to breakfast at the Alabama Hills Cafe. It's a bakery, diner and deli all rolled into one, and peering at everyone's plates as we walked in told me we were in for a treat--and the array of baked goods was just unbelievable.  

For my last meal before entering the wilderness, I opted for a breakfast burrito with avocado, and Anne, the blueberry pancakes. Indulgent, but not overly monstrous, it hit the spot and put me in a good spot to start the day. I would have snapped a photo...but I was too hungry. You know how it is.

Liam + Whitney

Pack out your crap, people! (When I first wrote that sentence I forgot the comma, and it read very differently...)

Meanwhile, when we got back to the room, Liam was still under the weather, and I set about getting dressed and ready. It was in these final steps of preparation that Liam and i realized neither of us had packed our stove. ARE YOU KIDDING ME?!?! I take full responsibility for the gaff, but luckily a fully stocked adventure store had the stove, so I sucked it up and got a new one. Desperate times....

With a near-miss of a fiasco on our hands--well, maybe not fiasco, per se, but massive inconvenience--we finally headed up Whitney Portal Road to the trail head. 

It was during our final hour in Lone Pine that my family notified me that John was being taken off life support within the hour.  No amount of venting, thought, or crying will prepare you for that moment, when you realize the candle has been snuffed out.  The metaphor and poignance of heading into the one place he would most want to spend his time is obvious. It should give me some sense of purpose, some extra boost of motivation to put one foot in front of the other and hike in his honor.  Indeed, on a deeper level these things are true, and I do feel that this trip has taken on a more significant meaning. But right now it's just taking every ounce of energy I have to stem the flood of frustration and grief that just won't release its chokehold on me. 

I told my family I love them, I promised to be safe, and I put my phone away as we ascended the switchbacks to the trailhead.  It's all I could do.  Fortunately, we came upon a friendly hitchhiker, clearly an outdoorsy guy needing a lift to our trailhead. Given the 90 degree heat and that the drive was well over 30 minutes and 4,000 feet, we happily brought him along and his company helped distract from the sorrow that had swallowed me whole. At the trailhead, we packed up, used the restroom, said goodbye to Anne, and were on our way. Simple as that. I have to take this moment to thank her for being so incredibly supportive and helpful. One of many great things about her is that in the throes of Liam's sickness, my sadness, and our stove mishap, she always stays positive and thinks of ways to solve problems. She's a calming presence, and I feel so grateful that she made the journey with us to see us off.  So thank you!!!!

Climbing...and more climbing...

Scott the Pot's at it again, people

AND SO IT BEGINS!

With the parking lot in the rear view, we trudged our way along the gently ascending path toward New Army Pass. The weather was extremely pleasant, and the scenery peaceful. We soon stopped so Liam could take a break and regroup.  Our stop, however, turned into a rather extended one.  The poor guy was suffering from what I'm thinking is a combination of 4 potential major factors: altitude (the most obvious culprit), nerves/excitement, side effects of his altitude medication (I forget the name, maybe acetazolamide?), and/or a brutal car ride up the countless switchbacks to reach the trailhead.  Add in possibly inadequate hydration/nutrition, and the odds were stacked against him today.  I tried walking him through a guided meditation to ease his discomfort after asking him numerous times if he wanted to head back and call his mom but he insisted that we just hang out, which was fine by me. His insistence alone was not the only thing that swayed me to stay the course. I know it can take anywhere from 24-48 hours for signs and symptoms to improve, so I promised him he had plenty of time to recover and continue on.  Even if we left on Wednesday, we could skip Mt. Whitney and do the 45 miles to Kearsarge by Friday afternoon if we had to.

Our lounge spot for the afternoon

So we lounged around by the side of the trail, meandering occasionally to the creek nearby and moving back and forth between shady and sunny spots. It was admittedly a somewhat boring afternoon, but it was peaceful, and having someone else to worry about and care for took my mind off of everything else. I just want Liam to stay positive, and knowing him, he will. 

The hours passed by until I decided to scout for some campsites. The area along Cottonwood Lakes Trail is quite pleasant to walk and to camp. No breathtaking vistas a mere mile into the trail, but it's really comforting.  We set up camp and got ready for bed, and here I find myself doing the only thing that's helping me cope.  I tried listening to audiobooks, but the beginnings of books are always the toughest parts to get into, and it just felt like rambling noise in my ears that couldn't drown out what I was really thinking.  My hope is that by the end of this trip, I will have succeeded in making this not the mopy-est blog of all time. But right now I'm just at a loss for words...so naturally I'm doing my best and failing at finding the right ones to express it all. 

Camp 1!

Let the selfies begin

Scott's already trying to steal the show

Nighty night!

I feel like I'm dishonoring him by letting his death negatively impact my trip. That is the absolute last thing John would have ever wanted. I know I need to be present in this moment and not stuck in moments that either were or never came to be. But grief is unavoidable, and I can't help but imagine the infinite number of ways our conversation could go when I get home to tell him about my hike.  Contrary to what I expected, this kind of isolation has not bestowed any semblance of emotional healing.  Granted, everyone is different, but I don't anticipate any Cheryl Strayed types of epiphanies here, no yelling into canyons, no introspective peace, at least yet.  I long to be surrounded by those who share this burden, whose forlorn faces appear like a mirror's reflection. If misery doesn't love company, then misery doesn't love anyone at all.  Instead I am bracing myself for the moment I stroll into Happy Isles and meet my dad's embrace, the moment I get home and curl up next to my mom, the moment I hear my brother's voice, and the moment Maddie squeezes me so tight I can barely breath.  Until then, I'll continue to wonder what John's favorite part of each day would be. Today, I imagine it's a tie between the moment we left town, and a leisurely 20 minute nap by the creek. 

Hoping tomorrow finds Liam in better health and myself in better spirits.  Rest in peace, John. 

Sunday, August 9, 2015

Day 0 JMT the Sequel: Tearful Goodbyes

Warning: much of this post is admittedly premature, and I even debated whether or not to post this. But with the current state of affairs in mind, and my impending isolation and lack of cell service I feel an overwhelming urge to vent.

I'm in the car on my way to Lone Pine. Liam and I just ate our usual Chipotle hack, bowls with double rice, double beans, half and half meat, and tortillas on the side. It's a bit late, 9:40pm, but we got a late start thanks to me. But we are on the road and a mere 12ish hours from hitting the trail. It's still a bit surreal to be back at it again. 

It's been a year to the day since Maddie and I walked down to Whitney Portal to meet our good friend, John.  I mention this with the heaviest of hearts, as John continues to fight a losing battle with pneumonia and a host of other infections that have capitalized on his compromised immune system. Having suffered from myelofibrosis for some time and depending on a never-ending series of blood transfusions and various drug therapies, John was finally forced to undergo a stem cell transplant in February of this year. Despite a 10 point match, the treatment failed to reap significant gains, and he underwent a second, less strenuous transplant this summer. He always maintained an optimistic outlook when we spoke, and we shared in his spirit.  It was only in the last couple of weeks that we were faced with the prospect of this second transplant failing. But we did not have time to react or look ahead to the next step, as he came down with a vicious infection this last Sunday. Within the next couple of days, his pneumonia and fungal infections worsened to the point that we were summoned to bid our farewells on Thursday night, as we prepared for the worst. 



Thursday, August 6, 2015 was one of poignant contrasts. In the morning, I woke up, headed to the Hotel Laguna and officiated my best friend's wedding, a memory I will forever cherish. It was a beautiful day and it merits its own post later for all the joy it brought to everyone involved.  While the morning festivities brought boundless joy and harmony, the evening wrought nothing but heartache. 

Within a couple hours of eating cake and dancing the afternoon away, the entire family and fleet of friends were bound for City of Hope to pay our dear friend John a visit. The doctor's prognosis was poor, and though we distracted ourselves with the joyful happenings of the day, a quiet despair hummed in the background. 

We arrived and were allowed to enter two at a time to visit him, donning gloves, a mask, and a gown, and under the assumed identities of his "cousins."  Intubated and in a coma, it was a difficult sight to behold. In the hours preceding that moment, the emotions spilled over numerous times, to the point that I was surprised there were any tears left in the tank when we walked into the ICU.  I won't belabor the scene before us, the elaborate Christmas tree of drip medications, the restraints, the steady mechanical cadence of the respirator, the occasional grimace on his otherwise peaceful face.

John has not yet left us, but with the most recent update giving him 24-48 hours left and me being stuck on the highway and not wanting to spend it quietly sobbing to myself in the back seat, I'll take this time to reflect on the man and mentor who has come to be one of my best friends.  

John has known me my entire life, as his friendship with my parents extends back almost 50 years.  I would not presume to know him as well as their remarkably close friend group that remains a shining example of enduring friendship and love. In fact, for many years growing up, I viewed John as my "parents' friend," a friendly face at my birthday parties or family celebrations. Straight-forward, outdoorsy, and almost always with a subtle grin on his face, John never really treated me like a child. In ways this intimidated me, but I almost feel like it facilitated our friendship that blossomed when I got older. 

John worked for my mom at her index tab business for as long as I can remember. Her office/warehouse was my playground, exploring the cupboards and shelves of the place, one might easily find as many puzzles and toys as business documents. And you couldn't even begin to count the athletic balls that Ryland and I lost in the warehouse amidst mountains of boxes and underneath the innumerable dusty wooden slats. In retrospect, the risk for serious injury by means of black widows and/or warehouse machinery alone was in all likelihood shockingly high. 

Besides the warehouse, my two favorite places in the office were the break room and John's office. The former because of a bevy of treats, from jelly beans I robbed of all the good flavors (tutti frutti is where it's at) to the most delicious potato chips and pretzels I've ever had that came in giant artisanal-looking metal tubs.  I didn't even spend that much time in the latter, as I had the sense it was almost taboo to enter his office. I remember it being distinctly uncluttered in comparison to my mother's office. This makes more than enough sense now.  While his office lacked the childhood playroom-like allure of the rest of the office, it harbored perhaps the best hidden secret of all: beef jerky. Tucked away on a shelf above his desk was a package of jerky I made a habit of raiding on a shamefully regular basis. It was only later that I came to appreciate his office's minimalistic decor and the little momentos and few photos displayed therein. Ryland and I played to our hearts' content in that office, and John was always a good sport about our undoubtedly counter-productive presence. Again, it was later in life when I came to view the office with an overwhelming sense of nostalgia that I truly appreciated the traces of John's witty humor that pervaded the office.  Perhaps even earlier than his outdoorsy-ness, I think my first perception of John was that he was funny--funny in the wise-guy sense, a brand of humor that suited his resting grin.  This Thursday was the first time I revealed to him that I stole his beef jerky. I promised him when he got out of the hospital I would take him to Costco to repay my debts. 

In high school and to a greater extent in college, as one might expect with maturity and age, I came to appreciate the company, conversations, and insights of those I had always classified as my "parents' friends".  They had all shaped me in some way over the years, offering a framework for how I defined friendship and envisioned my own life and comradery in the future. Their experiences became more relatable and my attention span was significantly greater than that of my 5-, 10-, or even 15-year old self.

It seems natural that John, with his steady presence at my mom's office and his regular visits to my mom's other office, most often joined us for dinner, as our family tended to eat out quite a bit.  These enjoyable dinners and my growing appreciation for the countless professional photographs framed throughout my mom and dad's offices and home perhaps hinted at our budding friendship as well.  What really cemented our bond, though, was my forray into hiking and outdoor activities.  I knew from my parents and his photos that he was a nature buff, but it wasn't until my mom suggested I hang out with him and ask him questions that I realized how much I could really learn from him.

Within a short period of time, it became clear to me that years of valuable time and potential tutelage had been lost. I'm pretty sure there wasn't a single visit home from college that didn't consist of a dinner with John or nature walk. He took me to REI to buy my first backpacking equipment, and at the outset of my gap year after college, our nature walks became almost a weekly routine. His wealth of knowledge and experience  made each jaunt a series of beautiful learning moments, and it wasn't long before our conversations became much more personal. I vented to him about everything, from my controversial decision to take a gap year to the trivialities of family disputes. His rich history with my parents gave him a deeper understanding of what I felt and helped provide a context for almost all of the peculiar family matters that I experienced growing up.  He told me hilarious stories about my parents, and he told me about his adventures and the friendships he made along the way. He took me kayaking in Dana point, and he showed me little pockets of nature in otherwise overdeveloped Orange County. More than anything, John seemed to get me in a way that really no one else did. His steadiness, his logic, his interests, his familiarity, and his humor made him the perfect sounding board for helping me avoid the quarter-life crisis. Grounded. Level-headed. Moral. Humble. Curious. Non-judgmental. These and a hundred other amazing attributes made John one of the most interesting, comfortable friends one could have.

As his disease worsened, opportunities for outdoor exploration dwindled, and soon we were resigned to slow walks around Dana Point's "Baby Beach."  This had no bearing on the level of enjoyment we both derived from these walks, but the diminishing activity took its toll on his spirits, though to a much lesser extent than it would have for the average person. For such a textbook pragmatist, John remained incredibly optimistic whenever he updated me on his condition. Self-pity wasn't in his wheel house. 

John was one of, if not, the most significant figures of our JMT thruhike last year. His wisdom, advice, and absolutely unwavering support helped make the trip so successful. Though family and friends certainly made the journey possible, only one person never once questioned our ability to complete the hike from the inception of our plan to hike the trail: John. For Maddie, especially, I think it was not just his belief in her ability to complete it, but it was the "duh, of course you'll finish it" manner in which he said it. This likely speaks to his experience and knowledge of us, but to two relatively inexperienced backpackers, this sort of unqualified support was indispensable for the tougher moments on the trail. 

And it seemed only fitting that he would be the one to pick us up at the end, arrival sign in hand, like the shepard welcoming home his flock. His condition had progressed to the point that altitude, even at the Portal, posed a bit of a challenge. His mountaineering days were by his own admission, done for now, and I feel like in some ways he was able to live vicariously through our adventures, as he was one of I'm sure a small handful of people who read every word of my blog.  I still remember the drive home like it was yesterday, the cooler of goodies he welcomed us with, the epic stop at In N Out, and the regaling of trail life with a veteran. To think that his days of adventures are over, over mountains, through desert, and by sea, is something I just cannot wrap my head around.  

I will cherish the night Maddie, John and I got dinner and spent the night exchanging stories and photos of our adventure, and in turn he set up his old school projector and showed us his slides of his own excursions through the Sierras and Idaho wilderness. He made us incredible prints from our journey, and we rejoiced in the memories of nature's boundless comfort.  These and so many more memories, sunny Southern California hikes, family dinners, laughter, long phone calls, and even teaching me to drive a moving truck will be how I remember my friend, John. 

John has been one of my biggest advocates, a voice of reason to calm my mother and quell my father, a therapist, a mentor, and a loyal friend.  The impending loss of such a person is unbearable and the emotion is so raw, I struggle to find the words to write this.  I am unsure how I will grapple with my grief on the trail. Indeed the hardest part so far has been having to leave him behind. But my mom assures me I will be taking him with me along the entire journey, to the most beautiful scenes on earth, to the places that embody his spirit and captured his heart.  He didn't have children of his own, but his wisdom lives on in me, and I will continue to share it with those fortunate enough to reap its rewards, starting with Liam on this trip of a lifetime.  I will continue to hike, to seek adventure, to practice common sense, and to lead a healthy, enriching life, and every step I take will be in his honor. When the going gets tough, I'll keep my head up, if only because John would ask, "what's the point in keeping it down?"  In a battle between his cynicism and his optimism, though one was often the heavy favorite, I found the latter to prevail more often than not in matters of counsel. 

And so I stood there Thursday night, my medical mask soggy with tears, and bade my friend farewell. I told him many things that night, many of which I've mentioned above--all things I will always wish I could have said to him the week before. We have not had enough time together.  I don't want him to miss Jon Stewart's last show.  I want him to see Stephen Colbert on tv again and let me know what he thinks. I want to look at more of his slides. I want him to continue reading my blog. I want him to teach me everything he knows about photography. I want to hear the story behind every photograph that decorates his home.  I want to tell him about dental school, and the Navy. I want to go on walks, and ride in his ancient VW Orange bug. I just want my friend around.

This post may be revisited and revised as I continue to reflect on how much John means to me.  I have every hope in the world that my friend will recover. Every bone of my body aches with desperation that he will make it through this and be in Yosemite to pick me up in a couple weeks.  And if he does come out of this coma long enough to read these words, I hope he can then find the strength to carry on, knowing how goddam much he means to us, to his family, his longtime friends, to my brother, to me. I shudder to think about the pain I'm leaving my parents in as we drive hundreds of miles away, unable to comfort them in any way. But as broken as they feel, as we all feel, I know we'll band together in remembrance of one of the best human beings I will ever have the pleasure of knowing, let alone calling my friend.  This trip is for you, John.

A year ago, today

Friday, July 10, 2015

Clark Loop Day 4

Today marks the end of my journey around the Clark Range, and I'm happy to be home. It was an incredible trip, but I'd be lying if I said it ended on a high note. It seems that any mishap that could 'mishappen,' indeed 'mishappened'...ie. if it could go wrong, it did.

At around 4:30am I awoke to the lovely spattering of rain against my tent, a sound I've come to really enjoy. About half an hour later, thunder boomed all around me, another sound that for whatever reason brings comfort to me.  I blearily muttered to myself something along the lines of, "this better be done by the time I get up."  Mother Nature refused my ultimatum. No surprise. 

When I was awake and ready to pack up, the storm was still pounding and so I just laid back and listened to Aziz read his book to me. Audiobooks are the way to go.  At around 9:30, the rain turned to sleet, which quickly became snow. It was actually delightful peering out and watching the gigantic snowflakes drift next to my vestibule, blanketing everything in almost 3/4 inch of snow.  It was a winter wonderland until I realized how simultaneously thirsty and water-less I was. Opting to venture out in search of water in the snow seemed a less messy alternative to doing so in the rain, but a half a mile down the trail and still no water.  Oh well, I figured I'd be able to head out soon enough.  

Winter wonderland in July...love it

It was so peaceful

The precipitation broke around 11:45, and I immediately packed up my stuff. The entire surrounding mountain scape was draped with a threatening darkness that made me second guess my move to keep hiking, but I could see a small gap of blue sky hovering above Red Peak Pass, my destination. I figured as long as I had that sliver of clear sky above me, I was in the clear to make it over the pass without putting myself in harm's way.   The only alternatives were to wait (which just seemed like torture), or to backtrack and get to Yosemite Valley via Merced Lake, which would add at least 7 miles to my trip.  Given my time constraints, as well as the fact that the main thing I wanted to see, Ottoway Lakes, was on the other side of Red Peak Pass, I decided to make a break for the pass.  I have a pretty good track record when it comes to intuition about storms, and I thought I could make it.

My little slice of blue sky giving me hope

I don't think I've ever hiked that fast. Just as I started, I caught movement on the slope/almost cliff to my left. Though it was a long distance away, it was unmistakably a bear scrambling up the face of stone. I didn't know how it was getting lumbering up that steep face, but it was so cool to finally see a bear!  As I climbed, anxiety started to creep it's way into my mind, as the shrinking vortex became supplanted by a gray haze.  Sure enough, as I looked back, the very ridge I had camped, as well as the surrounding mountains and valley were being engulfed by a menacing charcoal, almost black shroud of storm cover. I picked up my pace. I passed a couple of people who told me a that a ranger warned them the storm would likely persist through Saturday, so this weighed in my mind as I considered the fate for the remainder of the trip.  I made it to the top of the pass at almost 11,100 feet, snapped a photo and booked it down the other side as the blue sky completely disappeared. 

I SWEAR THAT'S A FREAKING BEAR! 

Climbing as fast as I can!

The impending storm...

Looking back down my climb

Ottoway Lakes were gorgeous to be sure, but I really didn't feel I had time to appreciate it. I was over the pass but not out of the woods yet. Actually that phrase is a bit misleading here because I was, in fact, well above tree line, so technically I was very much out of the woods...but you get what I mean. My timing was cutting close, and sure enough, as I approached the tree line, the heavens opened up and let loose a fury of hail and lightning. I didn't feel too worried, as I was doing the right thing and retreating to lower elevation, but the hail was getting bigger and more painful as I half-jogged my way down the switch backs. Just as I found cover under a tree, a giant pine cone fell on my hand and my hand was covered in blood.  Shoot. Oh well.

Upper Ottoway Lake

Lower Ottoway Lake

I decided pretty much right there that I was going to make it back to the car tonight. I didn't care if I had to sleep in the car, but I was just not in the mood to hunker down, soaked and battered, to wait out a thunderstorm.  There was a 30-50% chance of storms in the forecast when I decided to come here, so I wasn't surprised. I just felt like I didn't have to prove anything to anyone and would be just as happy heading home tonight.  

Last shot before the storm broke loose

I calculated that if I hustled, I could make it to the car by 8pm before dark. From Ottoway Lakes, I didn't stop a single time the entire walk, and neither did the precipitation. It rained continuously for almost 5 hours as I ground out the 25 painful miles. My heels and ties were a disgusting mess, and to make matters worse, I slipped and fell up to my shins into a creek crossing. See what I mean about mishaps?  It was a cold, poodle-dog riddled slog back to Mono Meadow, and I pushed myself by thinking of the day as a sort of test. When Liam and I do the JMT in August, we'll have three consecutive 25 mile days, and I figured if I could knock out 25 miles starting hiking at 12:30pm through horrible conditions, busted feet, and soggy boots, then I'd be able to handle our JMT stretch...hopefully.

A momentary respite under tree cover

As I trudged my way into the parking lot at Monk Meadow, my jaw dropped. I was so relieved and happy to have made it!  That, I discovered is one benefit of going solo--the option to truly test your limits. Granted, I my prefer companionship, and miss Maddie like crazy, but I was glad I got to try this out. I laid down my groundsheet in my trunk, put all my disgustinf gear inside, and headed down Glacier Point Road. On my way down, I came across a crowd of people on the side of the road, which can only mean one thing. Could it be? Twice in one day?  Yup! No more than 100 feet away, was a small bear grazing in a meadow going about its business. I couldn't believe it.  It felt like a reward for my hard day's work. 

Up close and personal with Yogi

I snapped a couple photos and headed home, devouring two Carl's Jr sandwiches and listening to Amy Poehler's hilarious audiobook aalong the way. I got home around 12:45, and Maddie was still awake. I showed her photos as I cleaned and dressed my wounded feet. If the pain was tolerable walking on the trail, cleaning them was the absolute worst. Graphic images for you weirdos that like that stuff will be provided at the bottom of this post.  So don't scroll further if that stuff grosses you out.

And now the fatigue of 25 miles, 4,000 feet of gain, and 5,000 feet of loss is hitting me and I'm going to hopefully sleep through tomorrow evening.

As promised...

I sprouted a sixth toe!

Both heels looked like this...ick 😯



Clark Loop Day 3

I really didn't want to leave Rutherford Lake today. Honestly the only thing that got me to break camp was the early aggregation of ominous cloud cover forming overhead. In fact, I was mere minutes from getting ready to go swimming when a shadowy darkness consumed the morning landscape. This and the slightly chilly breeze stayed my hand. If it were one or the other, I would have been stripping down and soaking my filthy self. So I got out even later than yesterday, at around 10am. Yikes. I was surprisingly hot yet again last night and I'm confused about how my body's responding at night, as normally I'm a human icicle. 

Rise and shine!

I was surprised by how well my body felt after how painful yesterday was. I felt really stiff, especially in my calves, but nothing to complain about and as soon as I was back at the trail junction half a mile later I felt ready to roll.  I was expecting to hit a trail junction 1.5 miles later, but I guess Aziz's audiobook is just that interesting because apparently I missed it and went on a two mile detour. I'll chalk it up to Sierra National Forest having different signage than Yosemite...and my stupidity.

Rutherford Lake

Can't get enough of this place

Back on track I hustled on a northeasterly trajectory that would take me to the base of Post Peak Pass. It would be the highest point on my trip so far at almost 10,800 feet. As I made my approach, though, I noticed the darkening clouds surrounding the mountain scape, draped over the peaks and cumulus masses swelling above them. There were patches of sunlight, sure, but I had been caught too many times in a thunderstorms last summer to ignore the anxiety starting to well up inside me. I say anxiety, but it's more of a thrill, I don't know how to put it.  I stopped, surveyed the landscape, weighed the last couple of days' weather patterns in my mind, and decided to push hard to get over the pass. It was a stunningly beautiful climb, and the top rewarded me with views toward Banner and Ritter as well as back to Fernandez. 

En route to Post Peak Pass

 Looking up toward the pass

Still climbing...

From the tippy top

Not only was the weather cooperating, but I checked my phone and actually had service! WHAT?!? I called the immediate family and told them I was okay, even face timed them. But it was cold and my battery was dying fast, so I cut short my link to the outside world, snapped some photos, ate a snack, and moved on. As the trail wrapped around the ridge toward Isberg Pass, I saw one of my favorite views I've beheld in the Sierra. Looking down on a grassy expanse and the surrounding mountains made my jaw drop. I don't presume to be a poet so I'll let the photos speak for themselves.

Reaping the fruitful rewards of a tough afternoon climb

The trail down was nice and gentle

No words...

It was on my way down that I thought of a silly spoof of PlacesMyPotGoes that some might deem inappropriate. As drinking a lot of water is crucial on these types of trips, I thought about all the times I've needed to stop to pee. It's not a big deal really. There's basically no one out here and you just step off the trail aways and do the deed. It struck me how I've gotten to urinate in some of the coolest settings on earth! I pictured an Instagram account with tasteful (if I can use that word here...) photos of me or anyone with their backs to the camera doing their business with the backdrop of some of the world's most pristine wilderness. Hence, PlacesMyPeeFlows was born. Before you lash out in disgust and protest, just mull it over. 

Honestly don't know what I would do without this stuff. So good!

A pretty cool tree I guess

Anyway, I continued my descent into the drainage and continued until I reached the junction for Vogelsang. There, I stopped and considered my options for the rest of the day, and ultimately decided to cook dinner there at 5:15 and continue to make some progress on my 2,000 foot climb to Red Peak Pass in store tomorrow. I fired up my new MSR Micro Rocket and made some ramen with Krave jerky thrown in (I promise it's amazing). I love the stove, it's loud but quick and absolutely tiny! 

From my campsite

Home for the night!

The sky was stunning

Looking up toward tomorrow's destination, Red Peak Pass

After packing back up, I really felt a second wind and hauled up the switchbacks. I wasn't sure where I'd end up, but that was part of the excitement. Just GO. I made it a solid couple miles and 600 feet up the climb when I decided to look for a campsite. There were plenty and though the one I found didn't have water, I had a liter left that would last me til morning. A couple of pop tarts and some photos later, and here I am wrapped in my sleeping bag, typing away on my phone. 

One last shot before bed time

I miss my family, and Maddie and my cozy apartment, but it's hard to complain about having the Clark Range of Yosemite seemingly all to myself. Night folks!

Clark Loop Day 2

Wow. Just wow right now. Here's what I'm looking at as the night settles: 

Rutherford Lake and surrounding mountains

Now lemme tell you how I got here. I had a really sweaty night, which is rare for me. Normally I'm in 6 layers, bundled so only my nose is visible, and using hand warmers on my body (like I said, I get very cold), but last night I was a sweaty pig.  I drifted in and out of sleep eventually, so I guess I could consider falling asleep a success, as it is no easy feat for me. Woke up around 7, and didn't get out of camp til almost 9. I wasn't disappointed because hey, where do I need to be? I took some photos, enjoyed my breakfast, and set out on a gentle climb Merced Pass.  I ran into 3 people, one JMTer coming from Quartz Mtn, and a couple headed to Ottowau Lakes. I figured the route to Red Peak Pass was more popular, so I opted to first swing down and east to Fernandez Pass.

Enjoying my morning by Illouette Creek

Climbing to Merced Pass, looking back toward Glacier Point area

Looking up at all the reddish peaks

Love the coconut macadamia Primal Pantry bar!

The climb was fine, I was listening to some Percy Jackson, and I was only a bit sore. As the day wore on, though, so did that soreness grow. Coming down from Merced toward Moraine Meadow, there were many beautiful meadows and a couple of stagnant would-be streams. It made me sad to see the drought taking such a toll up here. Nevertheless, the scenery got more spectacular throughout the day.

Cruising by meadows

Green green green!


A gorgeous little lake nearing the final ascent to Fernandez Pass

This Wild Friends chocolate sunflower seed butter made for an excellent snack break

Ascending the Fernandez Pass, I really began to feel the sneaky little pressure points that Maddie's pack was delivering to my lower back. Granted, I probably overloaded the weight on this pack, but it was an uncomfortable climb all the same.  The views continued to get even better. It was at Breeze Lake that I made the mistake of not filling up on water...

The climb up Fernandez was STEEP

Made it!

At the top of the pass was where I decided to have a little fun. There were some moderately angry-looking clouds to the east hanging over Banner and the Minarets, but I had blue skies and a hankering for some lunch.  After I dusted the last of my water and some food, I decided to scramble up one of the side peaks in hopes of a good panoramic view. And man was I glad I did!

Looking east to Banner and Ritter

#PoweredByChia...but seriously these are so addicting

A selfie with my DIY pole/tripod/earbud selfie stick

That view though...

Coming back down to grab my stuff

After leaving the pass, I came across a couple of fantastic campsites...but I didn't have any damn water! And I suspected/feared I wouldn't have more for another 2-4 miles or so. So as much as I wanted to stop and call it a day, my aching body, and blistered heels plodded onward. Honestly my pace was pretty slow, but I don't care, my body needed some TLC. 

Crossing into Ansel Adams Wilderness

With no water and my body betraying me, I banked on hitting the first body of water I came across, which happened to be a series of lakes half a mile off trail. Granted, Rutherford Lake was an additional 400-500 foot climb, but it had to be done. I trudged my way over the crest of what I sensed was the last bit of hill, and...wow. What a sight. The lake was beautiful, perfect. I saw a group of campers across the lake but I opted to plop down at the first site I found. 

Down off Fernandez Pass

Lakeside and lovin it

Purple mountain's majesty, indeed

Flooded with relief, I set up camp and set about taking care of my neglected feet.  The pain comes in waves, but it looks worse than it feels. And now, finally I'm in bed, and ready to finish the last 26 minutes of Percy Jackson. Until tomorrow!