Sunday, September 13, 2015

Italy Day 10: Naps In A Garden and Uffizi By Night

Consistent with pretty much every other day of our trip, we awoke around 9am and were out the door by a little after 10.  Our game plan was a bit more focused today, and, learning from yesterday's mistake, it began with getting a decent breakfast.  For this, we made two stops, first at a lovely bakery around the corner for a small rosemary raisin bread loaf (which just happens to be one of the most delicious baked goods I've ever had), and next at the same juice place as yesterday.  We each ordered a fresh juice, and I added on two mini ham and prosciutto sandwiches.  It wasn't a mountainous breakfast, but it was enough to get us up the long stretch of stairs to Piazzale Michelangelo.  

The walk took us down the Arno to the east, and finally led up a very lengthy set of stairs to our destination. As the sun's rays gradually increased in intensity, we enjoyed the gorgeous views of the city until the heat drove us to continue ambling along the shady sidewalk.  We continued along the road, following signs for San Miniato Basilica, and upon reaching our destination, were met with yet another impressive, beautiful structure.  There were plenty of people around, and some in curiously formal attire.  As we edged nearer the open door of the church, we saw a wedding taking place within its grand hall.  It was pretty cool to see a wedding going on inside such an ancient building, and after Maddie got her full of wedding-watching, we headed back down the long stairway in search of lunch. 

Arno

Ponte vecchio

Not sure I could look like more of a tourist if I tried

Scott's been pouting since we left the mountains, but he's coming around.

San Miniato


Our plan was to go to another place recommended by our host called Sabatino. We walked a considerable ways past our place and where the old door to the city is on the west side...only to see our destination with its door shuttered closed.  A massive wave of disappointment rocked my hungry consciousness, before Maddie stepped up cheerily, and suggested we go get sandwiches from that delicious hole-in-the-wall from yesterday.  The sense of let-down soon abated as we made the equally long trudge in the opposite direction.  I wouldn't say we were hungover, but we both felt quite lethargic today, perhaps a combination of last night's dinner and today's unrelenting heat.  When we finally made it to our sandwich shop--with a stop for Maddie to get gelato along the way--I was determined to order two, and happily did so.  One now, one later. Sounded like a plan. 

Gelato = happiness

So one sandwich in mouth and the other in hand, we walked back across the bridge toward what we guessed was the entrance to the Boboli Gardens.  We were both looking forward to this stop, as nothing in the world sounded more appealing than reading and napping in the shade of a quiet garden in Florence.  And that is exactly what we did.  We walked in a little ways before seizing on a shaded bench along a narrow, pretty footpath.  I started to listen to my audiobook, but within minutes I had to press pause before sleep overtook me.  About one hour later, we groggily woke up and willed ourselves to continue climbing the hill to the top of the garden, where we came upon another breathtaking view of the city.  It was here on the shady lawn, a mere 5 minutes of walking later, that Maddie plopped herself down and braced herself for yet another nap.   I wasn't about to complain, so I joined her on a nearby bench.

Nap spot number one

Nap spot number two

We did finally end up walking around and exploring the gardens.  I wouldn't say they themselves were a highlight for their beauty, or the statues for their impressiveness.  It simply provided a green, sheltered respite from the bustling streets below and beyond the Pitti Palace walls.  We spent a good three hours in there, and it was a wonderful way to spend the afternoon.  Still a bit sluggish, we exited the gardens, checked out the Uffizi Gallery line, which was almost s two hour wait time, and headed back to the apartment to lounge some more.  

Pitti Palace

Sculptures

We relaxed for about two hours before heading out for dinner at La Mangiatoia from night one.  There we enjoyed a caprese salad, cacio e pepe for Maddie, and a ham/artichoke/mushroom/olive pizza for me. We even sprung for water, having forgotten to bring our own.  It was yet another delicious meal in Florence.

Caprese

Fresh cacio e pepe

Soon we asked for the check because we wanted to check out the Uffizi Gallery.  Maddie had read online that they have special summer hours on certain days, so we thought we'd have a decent shot at shorter lines while everyone else was eating dinner.  Planning paid off, as we walked right up to the ticket booth!  By then, we would only have two and a half hours in there before closing, so we put our game faces on and readied ourselves for the frenzy of art that would ensue.  We sprung for the audio guide and were happy we did, as it gave us a lot of useful background information.  We saw so many amazing things in there, with no queues or waiting.  It was so much fun!  

The other famous J. C.

The ceilings were amazing

Birth of Venus

Spring

Leonardo Da Vinci

Caravaggio

Rafael

By closing time, Maddie and I were elated, but exhausted from such a long day, and we wearily retreated to our apartment.  The neighborhood was alive and busy, but we passed the bustling square with tunnel vision directing us to our bed.  With most of the major attractions under our belts, we feel satisfied and liberated to sort of do whatever suits our mood for the next couple of days.  But now, it's time to sleep. Goodnight!

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