Friday, July 10, 2015

Clark Loop Day 4

Today marks the end of my journey around the Clark Range, and I'm happy to be home. It was an incredible trip, but I'd be lying if I said it ended on a high note. It seems that any mishap that could 'mishappen,' indeed 'mishappened'...ie. if it could go wrong, it did.

At around 4:30am I awoke to the lovely spattering of rain against my tent, a sound I've come to really enjoy. About half an hour later, thunder boomed all around me, another sound that for whatever reason brings comfort to me.  I blearily muttered to myself something along the lines of, "this better be done by the time I get up."  Mother Nature refused my ultimatum. No surprise. 

When I was awake and ready to pack up, the storm was still pounding and so I just laid back and listened to Aziz read his book to me. Audiobooks are the way to go.  At around 9:30, the rain turned to sleet, which quickly became snow. It was actually delightful peering out and watching the gigantic snowflakes drift next to my vestibule, blanketing everything in almost 3/4 inch of snow.  It was a winter wonderland until I realized how simultaneously thirsty and water-less I was. Opting to venture out in search of water in the snow seemed a less messy alternative to doing so in the rain, but a half a mile down the trail and still no water.  Oh well, I figured I'd be able to head out soon enough.  

Winter wonderland in July...love it

It was so peaceful

The precipitation broke around 11:45, and I immediately packed up my stuff. The entire surrounding mountain scape was draped with a threatening darkness that made me second guess my move to keep hiking, but I could see a small gap of blue sky hovering above Red Peak Pass, my destination. I figured as long as I had that sliver of clear sky above me, I was in the clear to make it over the pass without putting myself in harm's way.   The only alternatives were to wait (which just seemed like torture), or to backtrack and get to Yosemite Valley via Merced Lake, which would add at least 7 miles to my trip.  Given my time constraints, as well as the fact that the main thing I wanted to see, Ottoway Lakes, was on the other side of Red Peak Pass, I decided to make a break for the pass.  I have a pretty good track record when it comes to intuition about storms, and I thought I could make it.

My little slice of blue sky giving me hope

I don't think I've ever hiked that fast. Just as I started, I caught movement on the slope/almost cliff to my left. Though it was a long distance away, it was unmistakably a bear scrambling up the face of stone. I didn't know how it was getting lumbering up that steep face, but it was so cool to finally see a bear!  As I climbed, anxiety started to creep it's way into my mind, as the shrinking vortex became supplanted by a gray haze.  Sure enough, as I looked back, the very ridge I had camped, as well as the surrounding mountains and valley were being engulfed by a menacing charcoal, almost black shroud of storm cover. I picked up my pace. I passed a couple of people who told me a that a ranger warned them the storm would likely persist through Saturday, so this weighed in my mind as I considered the fate for the remainder of the trip.  I made it to the top of the pass at almost 11,100 feet, snapped a photo and booked it down the other side as the blue sky completely disappeared. 

I SWEAR THAT'S A FREAKING BEAR! 

Climbing as fast as I can!

The impending storm...

Looking back down my climb

Ottoway Lakes were gorgeous to be sure, but I really didn't feel I had time to appreciate it. I was over the pass but not out of the woods yet. Actually that phrase is a bit misleading here because I was, in fact, well above tree line, so technically I was very much out of the woods...but you get what I mean. My timing was cutting close, and sure enough, as I approached the tree line, the heavens opened up and let loose a fury of hail and lightning. I didn't feel too worried, as I was doing the right thing and retreating to lower elevation, but the hail was getting bigger and more painful as I half-jogged my way down the switch backs. Just as I found cover under a tree, a giant pine cone fell on my hand and my hand was covered in blood.  Shoot. Oh well.

Upper Ottoway Lake

Lower Ottoway Lake

I decided pretty much right there that I was going to make it back to the car tonight. I didn't care if I had to sleep in the car, but I was just not in the mood to hunker down, soaked and battered, to wait out a thunderstorm.  There was a 30-50% chance of storms in the forecast when I decided to come here, so I wasn't surprised. I just felt like I didn't have to prove anything to anyone and would be just as happy heading home tonight.  

Last shot before the storm broke loose

I calculated that if I hustled, I could make it to the car by 8pm before dark. From Ottoway Lakes, I didn't stop a single time the entire walk, and neither did the precipitation. It rained continuously for almost 5 hours as I ground out the 25 painful miles. My heels and ties were a disgusting mess, and to make matters worse, I slipped and fell up to my shins into a creek crossing. See what I mean about mishaps?  It was a cold, poodle-dog riddled slog back to Mono Meadow, and I pushed myself by thinking of the day as a sort of test. When Liam and I do the JMT in August, we'll have three consecutive 25 mile days, and I figured if I could knock out 25 miles starting hiking at 12:30pm through horrible conditions, busted feet, and soggy boots, then I'd be able to handle our JMT stretch...hopefully.

A momentary respite under tree cover

As I trudged my way into the parking lot at Monk Meadow, my jaw dropped. I was so relieved and happy to have made it!  That, I discovered is one benefit of going solo--the option to truly test your limits. Granted, I my prefer companionship, and miss Maddie like crazy, but I was glad I got to try this out. I laid down my groundsheet in my trunk, put all my disgustinf gear inside, and headed down Glacier Point Road. On my way down, I came across a crowd of people on the side of the road, which can only mean one thing. Could it be? Twice in one day?  Yup! No more than 100 feet away, was a small bear grazing in a meadow going about its business. I couldn't believe it.  It felt like a reward for my hard day's work. 

Up close and personal with Yogi

I snapped a couple photos and headed home, devouring two Carl's Jr sandwiches and listening to Amy Poehler's hilarious audiobook aalong the way. I got home around 12:45, and Maddie was still awake. I showed her photos as I cleaned and dressed my wounded feet. If the pain was tolerable walking on the trail, cleaning them was the absolute worst. Graphic images for you weirdos that like that stuff will be provided at the bottom of this post.  So don't scroll further if that stuff grosses you out.

And now the fatigue of 25 miles, 4,000 feet of gain, and 5,000 feet of loss is hitting me and I'm going to hopefully sleep through tomorrow evening.

As promised...

I sprouted a sixth toe!

Both heels looked like this...ick 😯



Clark Loop Day 3

I really didn't want to leave Rutherford Lake today. Honestly the only thing that got me to break camp was the early aggregation of ominous cloud cover forming overhead. In fact, I was mere minutes from getting ready to go swimming when a shadowy darkness consumed the morning landscape. This and the slightly chilly breeze stayed my hand. If it were one or the other, I would have been stripping down and soaking my filthy self. So I got out even later than yesterday, at around 10am. Yikes. I was surprisingly hot yet again last night and I'm confused about how my body's responding at night, as normally I'm a human icicle. 

Rise and shine!

I was surprised by how well my body felt after how painful yesterday was. I felt really stiff, especially in my calves, but nothing to complain about and as soon as I was back at the trail junction half a mile later I felt ready to roll.  I was expecting to hit a trail junction 1.5 miles later, but I guess Aziz's audiobook is just that interesting because apparently I missed it and went on a two mile detour. I'll chalk it up to Sierra National Forest having different signage than Yosemite...and my stupidity.

Rutherford Lake

Can't get enough of this place

Back on track I hustled on a northeasterly trajectory that would take me to the base of Post Peak Pass. It would be the highest point on my trip so far at almost 10,800 feet. As I made my approach, though, I noticed the darkening clouds surrounding the mountain scape, draped over the peaks and cumulus masses swelling above them. There were patches of sunlight, sure, but I had been caught too many times in a thunderstorms last summer to ignore the anxiety starting to well up inside me. I say anxiety, but it's more of a thrill, I don't know how to put it.  I stopped, surveyed the landscape, weighed the last couple of days' weather patterns in my mind, and decided to push hard to get over the pass. It was a stunningly beautiful climb, and the top rewarded me with views toward Banner and Ritter as well as back to Fernandez. 

En route to Post Peak Pass

 Looking up toward the pass

Still climbing...

From the tippy top

Not only was the weather cooperating, but I checked my phone and actually had service! WHAT?!? I called the immediate family and told them I was okay, even face timed them. But it was cold and my battery was dying fast, so I cut short my link to the outside world, snapped some photos, ate a snack, and moved on. As the trail wrapped around the ridge toward Isberg Pass, I saw one of my favorite views I've beheld in the Sierra. Looking down on a grassy expanse and the surrounding mountains made my jaw drop. I don't presume to be a poet so I'll let the photos speak for themselves.

Reaping the fruitful rewards of a tough afternoon climb

The trail down was nice and gentle

No words...

It was on my way down that I thought of a silly spoof of PlacesMyPotGoes that some might deem inappropriate. As drinking a lot of water is crucial on these types of trips, I thought about all the times I've needed to stop to pee. It's not a big deal really. There's basically no one out here and you just step off the trail aways and do the deed. It struck me how I've gotten to urinate in some of the coolest settings on earth! I pictured an Instagram account with tasteful (if I can use that word here...) photos of me or anyone with their backs to the camera doing their business with the backdrop of some of the world's most pristine wilderness. Hence, PlacesMyPeeFlows was born. Before you lash out in disgust and protest, just mull it over. 

Honestly don't know what I would do without this stuff. So good!

A pretty cool tree I guess

Anyway, I continued my descent into the drainage and continued until I reached the junction for Vogelsang. There, I stopped and considered my options for the rest of the day, and ultimately decided to cook dinner there at 5:15 and continue to make some progress on my 2,000 foot climb to Red Peak Pass in store tomorrow. I fired up my new MSR Micro Rocket and made some ramen with Krave jerky thrown in (I promise it's amazing). I love the stove, it's loud but quick and absolutely tiny! 

From my campsite

Home for the night!

The sky was stunning

Looking up toward tomorrow's destination, Red Peak Pass

After packing back up, I really felt a second wind and hauled up the switchbacks. I wasn't sure where I'd end up, but that was part of the excitement. Just GO. I made it a solid couple miles and 600 feet up the climb when I decided to look for a campsite. There were plenty and though the one I found didn't have water, I had a liter left that would last me til morning. A couple of pop tarts and some photos later, and here I am wrapped in my sleeping bag, typing away on my phone. 

One last shot before bed time

I miss my family, and Maddie and my cozy apartment, but it's hard to complain about having the Clark Range of Yosemite seemingly all to myself. Night folks!

Clark Loop Day 2

Wow. Just wow right now. Here's what I'm looking at as the night settles: 

Rutherford Lake and surrounding mountains

Now lemme tell you how I got here. I had a really sweaty night, which is rare for me. Normally I'm in 6 layers, bundled so only my nose is visible, and using hand warmers on my body (like I said, I get very cold), but last night I was a sweaty pig.  I drifted in and out of sleep eventually, so I guess I could consider falling asleep a success, as it is no easy feat for me. Woke up around 7, and didn't get out of camp til almost 9. I wasn't disappointed because hey, where do I need to be? I took some photos, enjoyed my breakfast, and set out on a gentle climb Merced Pass.  I ran into 3 people, one JMTer coming from Quartz Mtn, and a couple headed to Ottowau Lakes. I figured the route to Red Peak Pass was more popular, so I opted to first swing down and east to Fernandez Pass.

Enjoying my morning by Illouette Creek

Climbing to Merced Pass, looking back toward Glacier Point area

Looking up at all the reddish peaks

Love the coconut macadamia Primal Pantry bar!

The climb was fine, I was listening to some Percy Jackson, and I was only a bit sore. As the day wore on, though, so did that soreness grow. Coming down from Merced toward Moraine Meadow, there were many beautiful meadows and a couple of stagnant would-be streams. It made me sad to see the drought taking such a toll up here. Nevertheless, the scenery got more spectacular throughout the day.

Cruising by meadows

Green green green!


A gorgeous little lake nearing the final ascent to Fernandez Pass

This Wild Friends chocolate sunflower seed butter made for an excellent snack break

Ascending the Fernandez Pass, I really began to feel the sneaky little pressure points that Maddie's pack was delivering to my lower back. Granted, I probably overloaded the weight on this pack, but it was an uncomfortable climb all the same.  The views continued to get even better. It was at Breeze Lake that I made the mistake of not filling up on water...

The climb up Fernandez was STEEP

Made it!

At the top of the pass was where I decided to have a little fun. There were some moderately angry-looking clouds to the east hanging over Banner and the Minarets, but I had blue skies and a hankering for some lunch.  After I dusted the last of my water and some food, I decided to scramble up one of the side peaks in hopes of a good panoramic view. And man was I glad I did!

Looking east to Banner and Ritter

#PoweredByChia...but seriously these are so addicting

A selfie with my DIY pole/tripod/earbud selfie stick

That view though...

Coming back down to grab my stuff

After leaving the pass, I came across a couple of fantastic campsites...but I didn't have any damn water! And I suspected/feared I wouldn't have more for another 2-4 miles or so. So as much as I wanted to stop and call it a day, my aching body, and blistered heels plodded onward. Honestly my pace was pretty slow, but I don't care, my body needed some TLC. 

Crossing into Ansel Adams Wilderness

With no water and my body betraying me, I banked on hitting the first body of water I came across, which happened to be a series of lakes half a mile off trail. Granted, Rutherford Lake was an additional 400-500 foot climb, but it had to be done. I trudged my way over the crest of what I sensed was the last bit of hill, and...wow. What a sight. The lake was beautiful, perfect. I saw a group of campers across the lake but I opted to plop down at the first site I found. 

Down off Fernandez Pass

Lakeside and lovin it

Purple mountain's majesty, indeed

Flooded with relief, I set up camp and set about taking care of my neglected feet.  The pain comes in waves, but it looks worse than it feels. And now, finally I'm in bed, and ready to finish the last 26 minutes of Percy Jackson. Until tomorrow!